WIP De Tomaso Ford 505 38 Piers Courage
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Topic author - F2
- Posts: 58
- Joined: Sun May 24, 2020 9:26 am
- Your Name: Eric
- Favorite F1 Team or Driver: RBR and Max Verstappen
- Location: Almelo, Netherlands
- Status: Offline
WIP De Tomaso Ford 505 38 Piers Courage
My present project is the build of the De Tomaso, the car that Piers Courage had his tragic accident in Zandvoort. That was 1970, nearly 50 years ago.
I use the Tameo TMK 329 kit as a basis, and modify it to the version as driven on that tragic sunday.
I think part of this hobby is the search to get pictures of the real car in the correct livery.
The artwork and the parts in the Tameo kit.
This is part 1. I hope you can see the pictures. It's very complex to add pictures on this forum, but maybe I do something wrong. I now use the attachment method. Maybe there is another, faster method. If so, please a step by step walkthrough if someone can help me.
This build has already 170 pictures.
Till next update
I use the Tameo TMK 329 kit as a basis, and modify it to the version as driven on that tragic sunday.
I think part of this hobby is the search to get pictures of the real car in the correct livery.
The artwork and the parts in the Tameo kit.
This is part 1. I hope you can see the pictures. It's very complex to add pictures on this forum, but maybe I do something wrong. I now use the attachment method. Maybe there is another, faster method. If so, please a step by step walkthrough if someone can help me.
This build has already 170 pictures.
Till next update
Re: WIP De Tomaso Ford 505 38 Piers Courage
Interesting project. I will follow your progress with interest
Re: WIP De Tomaso Ford 505 38 Piers Courage
Looking forward to your progress, will be interesting!
About the pics i mentioned it in your other thread, use a picture hosting service like Flikr for example, load them up there, then choose a picture size and copy the URL and put them in here. You only need to frame the URL with the IMG button here. You can chceck how it has to look like in my 43 thread, push on quote and you see how the pic url is attached.
Hope you figure it out, otherwise i can give you more tips on how to do it. The pics now are a bit small, but with the upload to flickr you can put in pics in higher resolution.
About the pics i mentioned it in your other thread, use a picture hosting service like Flikr for example, load them up there, then choose a picture size and copy the URL and put them in here. You only need to frame the URL with the IMG button here. You can chceck how it has to look like in my 43 thread, push on quote and you see how the pic url is attached.
Hope you figure it out, otherwise i can give you more tips on how to do it. The pics now are a bit small, but with the upload to flickr you can put in pics in higher resolution.
Take a stand!
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Topic author - F2
- Posts: 58
- Joined: Sun May 24, 2020 9:26 am
- Your Name: Eric
- Favorite F1 Team or Driver: RBR and Max Verstappen
- Location: Almelo, Netherlands
- Status: Offline
Re: WIP De Tomaso Ford 505 38 Piers Courage
Thank you gp-models. I uploaded the pictures on Flickr. I’ll try that method to get bigger and better pictures here.
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Topic author - F2
- Posts: 58
- Joined: Sun May 24, 2020 9:26 am
- Your Name: Eric
- Favorite F1 Team or Driver: RBR and Max Verstappen
- Location: Almelo, Netherlands
- Status: Offline
Re: WIP De Tomaso Ford 505 38 Piers Courage
First attempt.
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Topic author - F2
- Posts: 58
- Joined: Sun May 24, 2020 9:26 am
- Your Name: Eric
- Favorite F1 Team or Driver: RBR and Max Verstappen
- Location: Almelo, Netherlands
- Status: Offline
Re: WIP De Tomaso Ford 505 38 Piers Courage
Next try:
These kits have quite some flash te remove and a lot of holes to drill.
Before:
And after a few hours of elbow grease. Alreay dry fitted the still raw rollbar.
The engine is part of the chassis, and must later be connected straight in without a great seam.
Another dryfit with a part of the later to complete engine.
Also the nose with the wings need quite a lot of work.
And the first result of the constructed nose.
After some treatment with putty. And before the sanding.
Well, the pictures look better now. Maybe you guys think this is too much. So many pictures of every little step.
Please let me know. But I myself learned a lot from these kind of pictures to become a better modeller.
Regards, and untill the next update.
These kits have quite some flash te remove and a lot of holes to drill.
Before:
And after a few hours of elbow grease. Alreay dry fitted the still raw rollbar.
The engine is part of the chassis, and must later be connected straight in without a great seam.
Another dryfit with a part of the later to complete engine.
Also the nose with the wings need quite a lot of work.
And the first result of the constructed nose.
After some treatment with putty. And before the sanding.
Well, the pictures look better now. Maybe you guys think this is too much. So many pictures of every little step.
Please let me know. But I myself learned a lot from these kind of pictures to become a better modeller.
Regards, and untill the next update.
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- FOTA Chairman
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- Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Re: WIP De Tomaso Ford 505 38 Piers Courage
Very interesting project, and you've mastered the picture uploads, they look great
Re: WIP De Tomaso Ford 505 38 Piers Courage
That`s looking very tasty!
Nice to see you got managed to upload the pics, they look great and i agree that it is helpfull for other modelers to see important steps of the progress and how they are done.
Keep on posting, looking forward to see more of this build!
Nice to see you got managed to upload the pics, they look great and i agree that it is helpfull for other modelers to see important steps of the progress and how they are done.
Keep on posting, looking forward to see more of this build!
Take a stand!
-
Topic author - F2
- Posts: 58
- Joined: Sun May 24, 2020 9:26 am
- Your Name: Eric
- Favorite F1 Team or Driver: RBR and Max Verstappen
- Location: Almelo, Netherlands
- Status: Offline
Re: WIP De Tomaso Ford 505 38 Piers Courage
The next update,
I'm quick because the build itself is further than this report.
First the sanded front wing.
Primed and ready for later air brushing in the right color.
First work on the engine. The sorted parts.
Put together. Drilled some holes.
A FE part for the underside of the engine. It also conseals the seam between the connected motor halves.
And the gearbox. I connect this already with the engine to line it together.
And dry fit again. Past experiences learned me to do these things early.
I developped my style in using as little paint as possible, and make use of the metal itself. Because the parts are so little, even airbrushing has effect on the details. So I polisch a lot of material.
To get the gun-metal color, I use real gun-metal acid.
A first try made me think at first that it was a total disaster.
The result after using an old electric dental brush.
And another small part of the rear suspension. Before and after some sanding.
The mods I have to make for the Zandvoort version.
The rear wing at Zandvoort was partly in unpainted aluminium. It was also split to make it possible to make ajustments.
The wheels in Zandvoort were black, not gold.
Different layout of the decals. Some extra in Zandvoort. The Castrol logo's on the front wing.
Cool fluid pipes were external at Zandvoort. Kit does not provide this.
The race number was four at Zandvoort. I had to make new decals.
Black frame round the cockpit window. Not in the used kit.
Some pics.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/505 ... 1143_b.jpg
A picture of a build original kit.
Next update tomorrow.
I'm quick because the build itself is further than this report.
First the sanded front wing.
Primed and ready for later air brushing in the right color.
First work on the engine. The sorted parts.
Put together. Drilled some holes.
A FE part for the underside of the engine. It also conseals the seam between the connected motor halves.
And the gearbox. I connect this already with the engine to line it together.
And dry fit again. Past experiences learned me to do these things early.
I developped my style in using as little paint as possible, and make use of the metal itself. Because the parts are so little, even airbrushing has effect on the details. So I polisch a lot of material.
To get the gun-metal color, I use real gun-metal acid.
A first try made me think at first that it was a total disaster.
The result after using an old electric dental brush.
And another small part of the rear suspension. Before and after some sanding.
The mods I have to make for the Zandvoort version.
The rear wing at Zandvoort was partly in unpainted aluminium. It was also split to make it possible to make ajustments.
The wheels in Zandvoort were black, not gold.
Different layout of the decals. Some extra in Zandvoort. The Castrol logo's on the front wing.
Cool fluid pipes were external at Zandvoort. Kit does not provide this.
The race number was four at Zandvoort. I had to make new decals.
Black frame round the cockpit window. Not in the used kit.
Some pics.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/505 ... 1143_b.jpg
A picture of a build original kit.
Next update tomorrow.
-
Topic author - F2
- Posts: 58
- Joined: Sun May 24, 2020 9:26 am
- Your Name: Eric
- Favorite F1 Team or Driver: RBR and Max Verstappen
- Location: Almelo, Netherlands
- Status: Offline
Re: WIP De Tomaso Ford 505 38 Piers Courage
As promised, the next batch of pictures of the progress.
First the modified rear wing. At Zandvoort it was a 2 part rearwing, with the aft secion unpainted. Therefore I made a slot in the rear wing. I usually don't paint aluminium sections, but polish it to a aluminium shine. That way you keep a real metal structure which you almost can't archieve with paint.
The rear uprights cleaned and sanded. Also drilled some 0,3 mm holes.
The exhausts coloured to gun metal with the acid method.
A typical Tameo detail. Tiny FE parts to be foulded into a battery with supports.
The theory according the very good manual.
And part of the practical execution of the theory.
The pumps attached to the engine. Both are not painted.
A lot of work on little details. The front uprights had a lot of flash and seams. White metal however is easy to work on. You just need patience. A lot..
Testfitting the parts which must become the front wheel suspension.
Bending the small FE parts is a delicate matter. You get only a few attemps to get it right. The metal fatique makes the parts break. How I know....?
I use a bending tool to get this right in one turn.
On with the calipers of the breaks. Studying the manual is important. Front and rear callipers differ.
You can see the different stages. Again used the acid method to get the gun metal color.
The breakdiscs are made from two parts to get ventilated disks.
I press the callipers on the disks to use as less glue as possible near the polished disks. I sand them to a snug fit.
Also the turned wheel hubs glued into place.
And this four-fold.
And last for today some very small parts for the suspension on the body.
That's my contribution for today. Untill next time.
First the modified rear wing. At Zandvoort it was a 2 part rearwing, with the aft secion unpainted. Therefore I made a slot in the rear wing. I usually don't paint aluminium sections, but polish it to a aluminium shine. That way you keep a real metal structure which you almost can't archieve with paint.
The rear uprights cleaned and sanded. Also drilled some 0,3 mm holes.
The exhausts coloured to gun metal with the acid method.
A typical Tameo detail. Tiny FE parts to be foulded into a battery with supports.
The theory according the very good manual.
And part of the practical execution of the theory.
The pumps attached to the engine. Both are not painted.
A lot of work on little details. The front uprights had a lot of flash and seams. White metal however is easy to work on. You just need patience. A lot..
Testfitting the parts which must become the front wheel suspension.
Bending the small FE parts is a delicate matter. You get only a few attemps to get it right. The metal fatique makes the parts break. How I know....?
I use a bending tool to get this right in one turn.
On with the calipers of the breaks. Studying the manual is important. Front and rear callipers differ.
You can see the different stages. Again used the acid method to get the gun metal color.
The breakdiscs are made from two parts to get ventilated disks.
I press the callipers on the disks to use as less glue as possible near the polished disks. I sand them to a snug fit.
Also the turned wheel hubs glued into place.
And this four-fold.
And last for today some very small parts for the suspension on the body.
That's my contribution for today. Untill next time.