Lotus 79 decals now available

[indycals]

So far only test fitted with the Hasegawa kit - will test fit the Tamiya kit this week.

http://www.indycals.net/decals/f1/78lotus79.html

[Habu12]

Durn, I was hoping for the Tam ones. No worries, let us know when they're ready!

[baggen]

1 set for the Superswede is on order

[SBEST]

So far only test fitted with the Hasegawa kit - will test fit the Tamiya kit this week.

http://www.indycals.net/decals/f1/78lotus79.html

Please educate me. Why the solid black background around the gold/biscuit colours?

Steve.....

[mtrspeed]

Dear SBEST,

This was my idea several years ago when I released a complete set for the 1/12 Lotus 72D JPS version. I decided to print a solid black background to avoid the clear "foggy" effects of the varnish after de decals are applied to the black surface of the car.

This idea was so successful that all other big manufacturers like Tamiya, Studio 27, and now Indycals decided to follow me.

Sorry to be mentioning this here but the truth has always to be mentioned and never forgotten!

Cheers to all!!!

Very best regrads from Brazil,

Michel => MTR SPEED, ACE AND CHEQUERED FLAG

[craig]

They look good and have just ordered a set, Thanks.

[indycals]

So far only test fitted with the Hasegawa kit - will test fit the Tamiya kit this week.

http://www.indycals.net/decals/f1/78lotus79.html

Please educate me. Why the solid black background around the gold/biscuit colours?

Steve.....

Actually my reasons are different slightly different than those outlined by mtrspeed. Color printing on a colored car requires a layer of white underneath the printing to keep the color from being altered (remember the first Tamiya Lotus 78 decals that were yellow and turned green on when applied to the black car? - a white underlay prevents this). On my early sheets I noticed that sometimes the underlying white printing would be slightly visible around the edges. By trimming the printing with the body color this removes that effect and produces a cleaner print and cleaner finished model. It does have the added advantage of removing silvering as noted by Michel, but that can also be removed with setting solution, but this side benefit turned out to be an added bonus. This is something I do on many of my sheets, not just the JPS sheets. http://www.indycals.net/faq/faq.html#coloroutline

[indycals]

Durn, I was hoping for the Tam ones. No worries, let us know when they're ready!

These 'should' work for the Tamiya kit, but until I have one in hand (should be today or tomorrow), I won't know for sure. So better to wait a day or two to be safe.

[Habu12]

OK, no problem. I have the kit in hand, and I will build it OOB, except for decals. This car simply cannot be done without JPS decals!

[sh-modeling]

... On my early sheets I noticed that sometimes the underlying white printing would be slightly visible around the edges. By trimming the printing with the body color this removes that effect and produces a cleaner print and cleaner finished model. It does have the added advantage of removing silvering as noted by Michel, but that can also be removed with setting solution, but this side benefit turned out to be an added bonus. This is something I do on many of my sheets, not just the JPS sheets. http://www.indycals.net/faq/faq.html#coloroutline

This might be useful for very small decals like the "winning laurels" on the rear wing, but why the whole sidepod decal is a single large black piece is beyond my understanding... There will be still different shades of black (one on the printed decal and one on the painted car), which would be hard to match against each other. And the main reason for me to not use this kind of decals is that it's much more difficult to lay out a large decal on a car body. Even if it's a "simple" shape like a sidepod, it still has nice details like body fasteners or panel lines, which are always causing a decal to wrinkle, even with lots of setting solution. For me, this should better be done like the separate "JPS" lettering at the cockpit surround...