The F1M Forums

I don't know how many of you are following this. I haven't but will go back to give this a thorough reading because I am certain this person's talent far out distances mine. Having said this, I strongly disagree with the instructions for this installment which says:

Start masking the body areas in preparation for painting the window frame/underside/light areas etc. While each section can be painted using a brush carefully, masking and airbrushing as a whole creates a better finish and is a much faster process overall. For masking, use masking tape to cover the entire body, and use a modeling knife to carefully cut away areas such as the window frame/light areas etc. Be sure not to exert too much force and damage the body.[color]

I personally think this is a risky technique in this case. Masking over a decaled body is asking for trouble in a number of ways. Either it will lift the decals when removing the tape or it will deposit tape goo all over. First of all, the parts being painted are parts which are supposed to be black rubber. I think in this case it would be far easier, safer with a more accurate look to brush paint in acrylic and simply straighten the lines or correct errors with a q-tip moistened with window cleaner rather than to spray a lacquer based paint and clean up with lacquer thinner. Of course, he may not make any such errors and I certainly do so I know what the heck I am talking about. Also his body may already be clear coated and that may protect the decals and I am just too timid to take the chance. Still I don't think his method is the best in this case.

I apologize in advance if this seems overly obvious or totally unnecessary but I am concerned that others may ruin a finished body.

REgards,

Joe.

He is taping over an Applied 2K clear coat over decals so no lifting should occur

I will not completely rely on the clear coat to protect the decal below. Yes will will work most of the time if the clear coat is thick. However, if the decal does not adhere to the surface beneath it good, even a thick coat on top will just be torn away together with the decal when the tape is pulled.

I have experienced this before because I do not use thick clear coat.

Many times I've applied masking tape over decals that have been clear coated, both with 2k and also other clear coats. Mainly on rally cars to paint the window rubbers. I've never had the tape pull off either the clear, or the decals. I don't apply tape and cut with a scalpel as suggested. I prefer instead to use thin pieces of tape and apply around the window frames then infill with more tape..

If it is 2K Urethane clear you will not have any problems with taping over your decal.

I have had masking tape lift decals despite having a lacquer clear coat over the decal. It really depends on the adhesion of the decal to the underlying surface. In my case, I always apply the decal to a glossy surface only and treat with a decal softener. It is hard to predict when adhesion is poor, but for me, it appears to be related to the age of the decals - the older the riskier.

I use a black sharpie for window frames. Works great.
Dave