WIP: 1/20 Tamiya Ferrari F60

[dozman]

Man, you are very keen. Very nice progress.

[nmasahiko]

Didn't you get Tamiya's TS-85 Bright Mica red?

[De21]

Didn't you get Tamiya's TS-85 Bright Mica red?

No, I am not fortunate enough to live in Japan , so with the shipping restrictions on paints I couldn't get it with the kit... But that's not to bad I think the Zero Paint will be just fine . But as I read on the R10 website Tamiya paints might be ok to ship again since they provided the MSDN-whatever safety letter...

small update, nothing interesting though... sprayed first layer of primer for most parts . Looks good so far, all the putty work turned out fine.

[lumpulus]

But as I read on the R10 website Tamiya paints might be ok to ship again since they provided the MSDN-whatever safety letter...

That would be an MSDS Material Safety Data Sheet. It's a document listing what chemicals are in the paint(in this case)

[stubeck]

This is probably the wrong area to ask it, but what do you use to keep the parts on the long sticks for painting?

[CBartholomew4677]

I always use CA glue to attach parts to toothpicks and plastic rod for painting. Find a place that's a mounting or attachment point for the part, that will not need to be painted and attach it there.
Cheers,
Chris

[billgtp]

Looking good.Keep us posted

[De21]

I always use CA glue to attach parts to toothpicks and plastic rod for painting. Find a place that's a mounting or attachment point for the part, that will not need to be painted and attach it there.
Cheers,
Chris

That is pretty much what I do too but additionally I also use what is mostly known as "Blue Tac" (in my case "patafix" from UHU) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blu-Tack.

[stubeck]

Thanks for answering my complete n00b question The models looking great too!

[De21]

next update...

More sanding and working on the chassis after primer. I glued the airbox in place which also needed some more putty, pin marks on the inside of the parts aswell as a seam because the airbox is made out of two parts.



Another thing are these "slots" infront of the sidepods. I think if I remember correctly they are for the KERS cooling. Tamiya realised this quite clever because you will get this slot after glueing the sidepod to the chassis. There is just one thing wrong with the "slot", it should go from the little "hole" almost on top of the chassis right to the bottom but that is not the case there is a small part of the slot missing (too bad I didn't take any pictures but I hope you know what I mean ).
So I rescribed them with a chisel (If you are reading this Akihiro, thanks again for doing the review on the chisels )


The bottom of the bodywork as well as a part of the sidepod needs to be painted black. The parts have some small "raised" masking lines, I would have preferred them to be just like normal panel lines because sanding, polishing etc. would have been a lot easier... So I decided to scribe my own lines by using some masking tape along the original lines as a guide and then using a 0.15mm chisel.


first side done, quite hard to see here actually but that is the plan, since you simply need them to mask for the black


The bodypanel not rescribed yet...



Finally all pin marks removed... 15 in total (only on the top side)...


removing the chrome with brake fluid didn't work as planned... It was quite strange in some places the chrome came off really easy but in others it was impossible to remove any of it...


On to the front suspension, these covers (or whatever they are called ) are as you can see made out of two parts, problem is that you should attach them after you glued the other suspension parts in place but that will give you a seam. So I glued the parts together (not to the chassis by the way), then I will putty and sand them and later add CF decals.
The only downside to this is now that you have to cut the suspension parts in half to be able to "insert" them.