The F1M Forums

I used Halfords primer, followed by Tamiya white. Then Tamiya TS-36. All that went on over a year ago. Then, after I applied the gold stripe I sealed everything with Johnsons Clear. So far so good. Then applied 3 mist coats of Halfords clear laquer. All good. Initial photos are of that stage which raised the comment about the orange peel. After mist coats had been left a couple of days, I applied one more mist coat followed by wet coat and then left it all alone for 2 weeks to avoid temptation of touching it too early! That is when cracks appeared. There is a horrible phrase in use in english where people say they are 'gutted' but I guess that just about sums up how I feel right now.

I have very little appetite for stripping this all back but I really dont see any other way out. However, I will try Acer's suggestion of some more Johnsons clear.
I know I owe it to the rarity (and COST!!!!!) of this model to get it right. But I'm concerned that if I try to deconstruct it to be able to strip it properly, I will do permanent damage to the glued plastic. A Rock and a Hard Place!!!

Why are you using so much different brands?
What is that Johnson's clear?
Something like future?
Why you sealed it with Johnson's stuff and a while later with a second clear coat.
Make that sense?
I don't understand that, can you explain it please.
I only use the same clear coat to seal the Decals that I use to clear the whole car.
Maybe there are too much different color on it?

I always use Gunze Top gloss spray. This is "soft" and I have NEVER had any issues.

I am quite certain your problem was the lacquer clear coats over the Johnsons Clear which is an acrylic. You can put acrylic over lacquer but not the other way.

In all cases, I keep a test strip about 1.5 inches by 9 inches that has the exact same finish as that which I am using, e.g., primers, colors, top coat that way I always have a valid test to work from.

Sorry about the finish. It was looking so good.

joe.

Hi Zuff,
This is easy to say in hindsight and will not help much but for future reference next time!
The Halfords primer and Halfords lacquer are very volatile I have had issues with both myself!
But mixing the whites acrylic and lacquer based paints has not helped.
With modelling it's sometimes frustrating and I know how you feel,we have all been there,sometimes you feel you are on your own!
But everything can be fixed given time and patience!
Halfords lacquer particularly is liable to craze for some reason because it dries at a different rate especially going over high gloss ts36 this paint has different characteristics out of all the Tamiya Ts sprays it goes red over time instead of Fluro!
The best is Mr.Color 171 Fluro.
My advice would be to strip and start again I know it seems a lot of work but really probably your best bet to make you feel happy with such an awesome model!
Leave in brake fluid for a week or two to strip and then
Primer with Tamiya White primer and either use all zero paints or the Tamiya Ts White and Mr.Color.
Probably you could re paint it all in about a month weather permitting!

capri-schorsch wrote:Why are you using so much different brands?
What is that Johnson's clear?
Something like future?
Why you sealed it with Johnson's stuff and a while later with a second clear coat.
Make that sense?
I don't understand that, can you explain it please.
I only use the same clear coat to seal the Decals that I use to clear the whole car.
Maybe there are too much different color on it?

I read somewhere, probably on here, a tip about using Johnsons clear to apply over decals to protect them before using a lacquer which may cause a reaction.
At the end of the day, I think this comes down to using paints from one manufacturer to ensure chemical compatibility. Many people have different ideas on fora like this and it is too easy for a newbie to get confused and end up in a mess.
As I said earlier, modelling seems as much about materials science as anything else!
Acer, if I use brake fluid to strip the paint I assume I will have to dismantle the model first? That sounds drastic!

Yep it is a drastic at this stage as you are far down the line maybe it's
worth having a 2 week break and just have a think which way to go!

Are the cracks only on top of the side pod or are there more?
Maybe a spot repair only on top of the side pods could be possible?
I dont know,but i cant see your pics ith the cracks anymore?
Its gone on my computer.

Before i disassemble all the model i would try to do a spot repair if possible.

Yes, it has only affected the red on the top of the body, front to back, extensive. The white is OK.

Thinking about very gently sanding back the red only, masking and repainting. Tedious but much less drastic than dismantling and stripping.