The F1M Forums

I don't think I did there, (where the paint lifted anyway) one thing I have noticed about the Zero/Hiroboy paint is that it is very soft.

I think I will just let this one sit for about a month, and then come back to it. I will sand it down a bit to remove the "Lip" and slowly fill it in with paint.

I hope that it is forgiving enough to do it this way.

Manu wrote:and a question, as it happened to me recently. Do you make mark with your blade on the paint or on the masking tape?
Las time I was doing a mazda, I made a little mark with my X-acto on the paint to see where tha tape should go. I put the tape on, sprayed and when i removed it,, the paint came with it. i was wondering id it doesn't open a "air hole" or something so it remove a bit of paint that can be easily stripped (I hope I'm clear, sorry)...

Manu: the blade cutting ON the model surface always brings this danger in. If we were able to cut JUST the tape thickness, but the blade will always touch the plastic -well, in your case resin! they also make plastic models you know! (***)- or whatever.
I prefer to cut the tempalte out of the place where it'll go, since I had similar experiences as what you tell.
That said, obviously, the "cut with the mask applied on" is more exact...


(***) Sorry my friend, couldn't help it!!

je sais mon ami! i just received the Tamiya Xanavi R35 . Well plastic is expensive and simple !!!!

I've had issues with multiple color designs also:
1. Paint peels/chips off when the tape is removed.
2. Paint "pits", (not peeled/chipped) when the tape is removed.

Caused by two (2) things:
1. Blade cut marks from cutting masking templates.
2. Inadequate drying time for the base paint

My biggest problem seems to have been 2) Inadequate drying time, so I let things dry a little longer than I would think is enough. This is my excuse for why it takes me so long to finish anything.

Finally, I agree with what was said previously. Put this kit away for a while and work on something else, or you may get so frustrated that we may see this kit on E-Bay!
I did this with the Academy Benetton B195. Couldn't get the paint to match the decals, damn near put it into the fireplace after about 15 different incorrect matches. Pulled it out about 4 years (!!) later, started over and finished it. I'd hate to see this one go into the fireplace, because it's a really interesting and unique car, one i've been wanting to do for a while now.
Chris

Bugger bugger bugger...! I think we've all suffered from the same problem. I'd hate to see this one never get finished though.
Like the others have said, just come back to it later in 2009 when it'll be fresh again.

Well:

Thanks for the comments guys. I decided to strip the whole thing again, I want to get this one finished, so I am going to stick with it. I have a whole closet full of kits that are in some state of assembly, and I am kind of tired of adding to it, and not finishing anything. I think that I will wait longer in between colors/clear and maybe that will do it. As stated by many on this post it is a unique car, during a time when going out on a limb as far as aerodynamic design was concerned was un heard of.

I hope to have pictures of better progress in about 3- weeks.

Hi,

Here's my 2 cents.

I have done multicolor sprays before. I peel the masking tape off when the paint starts to try but is still sticky. The way the tape is pull is also important. Pull the tape vertically up and at 45 degree away from the new paint. The worst that can happen is traces of new paint fall on the covered area. Do not touch them. Let them dry for a day or two. The pulled over paint does not stick well to the first layer as they were already drying. They can be even polish away.

The green and red on the side pod are painted on the white base color using paper templates as I discribed above. Sorry for the grainy picture.

C K
Canada

Something else you may want to try is to cut the tape off the roll, then stick it to a very clean table/surface a few times and pull it off. This will get rid of much of the stickiness but I've found it will still be suitable for a proper masking job.
Perhaps just try this on an old model or piece of plastic first to satisfy yourself.

I taped and shot the Zero Williams Racing Blue this past weekend. I cleared it this time before moving on to shoot the white. I will have to do a little clean up around the edges, but that should be easy.

Great to see this one again!! Paint looks great, I love the Williams white/blue colors, and thanks to Sir Frank for sticking with it for all these years (save for the FW20, 21).
I'm looking forward to seeing you finish it.
Cheers,
Chris