Cooper Climax T-51....'59 British GP

Models in progress... including non-F1 models.
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hquednau
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Re: Cooper Climax T-51....'59 British GP

Post by hquednau »

Your work is inspiring- truly "modeling". What I do, by comparison, feels like putting a very clever puzzle together. Thanks for sharing your process!
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harveyb258
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Re: Cooper Climax T-51....'59 British GP

Post by harveyb258 »

Thanks for the kind words, lads!
I'm pleased that you are still enjoying! :D

Cheers, H
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Eagle50
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Re: Cooper Climax T-51....'59 British GP

Post by Eagle50 »

Fantastic tranny top, Harvey. Good to see you're still workin' on this.

Cheers, Chris
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gp-models
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Re: Cooper Climax T-51....'59 British GP

Post by gp-models »

What an outstanding update Harvey!
Supernice work as usuall, i missed an update but now i`m running out of words! It was worth each minute finaly :D
Take a stand!
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harveyb258
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Re: Cooper Climax T-51....'59 British GP

Post by harveyb258 »

Good evening gentlemen.

Chris and gpmodels....many thanks lads :wink:
I have some more progress to share with you all......the gearbox is now completed and firmly mounted to the bell-housing, as are the shift-rods, so I'm a happy chappy now!:D Still need to make the gearbox anchor brackets for the rear-end, but that's no biggie.

The selector plates are made from scrap ali and the 3 nuts on top made from ali and brass tubes, filed to shape.
The rest of the hardware is from T2m.
The selector rods are 0.8mm nickel-silver tube from Albion Alloys, while the universal-joint was created from 1mm nickel-silver tube, drilled and filed out. These are fully-articulated using 0.4mm brass tube and then intersected at 90degrees with a 0.3mm rod...very fiddly, especially at this scale.
The breather tube on the side is made from 1.2mm brass tube with a thin sliver of 1mm brass rod, 0.4mm holes drilled around the top.

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Well, that's all for now, folks!
Thank you for watching my endeavours and Merry Christmas everybody :mrgreen:

Cheers, H
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vanhookvintage
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Re: Cooper Climax T-51....'59 British GP

Post by vanhookvintage »

Merry Christmas, Harvey. Happy Hanukkah, too.

This is still my lookout when I log onto F1M, and am always happy to see a new post from this endeavor. May 2017 bring you a couple of DCOEs LOL. Can't wait! :D :D :D

Cheers,
Greg
"Everyone dreams of driving a Ferrari, it was my intent from the start." Enzo Ferrari
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Starr
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Re: Cooper Climax T-51....'59 British GP

Post by Starr »

Hi Harvey,

Good to know you have the Cooper on your bench and that you are making progress with it. And what a progress! It is a joy and a learning experience to follow your w.i.p.

Thanks my friend,

Cheers,

Starr
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dmandam
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Re: Cooper Climax T-51....'59 British GP

Post by dmandam »

Merry Christmas Harvey!
Brilliant work as always.
Can you elucidate a little more, please, on just how you made the U joints?
I have a couple of them to make for the Van Diemens and am just thankful that I am working in 1/12th!
David M
Sydney, Straya
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Eagle50
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Re: Cooper Climax T-51....'59 British GP

Post by Eagle50 »

Wow, 'working' U-joint gear linkage! Amazing!!

Cheers, Chris
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harveyb258
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Re: Cooper Climax T-51....'59 British GP

Post by harveyb258 »

Thank you all for your kind words...much appreciated, guys! :wink:
vanhookvintage wrote:May 2017 bring you a couple of DCOEs LOL. Can't wait!
It most definately will, Greg! I see light at the end of the tunnel now :P
dmandam wrote:Can you elucidate a little more, please, on just how you made the U joints?
I'm not very good at explaining things, so I'll try with the aid of a couple of sketches......

To begin with, I took 2 lengths of 1mm nickel- silver tube and carefully drilled and filed out the slot in each piece.
In part A, I drilled a 0,4mm hole....in part B, a 0,3mm hole....

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Then cut a 0,6mm length of 0,6mm tube. Put a tiny drop of CA gel inside it. Then you have to quickly insert into part A and pass a length of 0,4mm tube through the whole thing.

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When this is achieved, drill a 0,3mm hole through the centre of the knuckle of the pivot.

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Then, it is a just a matter of attaching part B with a 0,3mm rod through the entire assembly and hey presto....a fully articulated u-joint! :P

Hope that helps.

Cheers, H
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