Decals

[wkunert]

I found a you tube video by a Japanese builder doing a Tamiya MP 4/4. He uses a soldering iron to heat a wet Q Tip and rubs down the decal with it. He is able to stretch the decal as needed. I posted a topic about it. It's in the Pit Lane tips and hints under decals. I posted the video url. It's in Japanese and the part about decals is about 23:30. The whole video is pretty good because he is a decent builder.

[eyckles]

He's the guy from Finisher's. He owns a store in Japan called automodeli GT. I watched his tutorial many times. Love it

[jaydar]

I wish I understood him, however the technique looks good. I think it will come in handy with stiff carbon fiber decals.

Thanks for sharing.

Joe.

[wkunert]

I thought of carbon fiber decals when I posted it. I haven't used them but they seem to be a problem around curves and sharp corners.

[bossy122]

I thought of carbon fiber decals when I posted it. I haven't used them but they seem to be a problem around curves and sharp corners.

Micro Sol and a hair dryer take care of the corners. But did he have anything on dealing with bubbles. That's the problem I have found with cadbon decals.

[jaydar]

For bubbles on normal decals, I push I pin point in to break surface and then hit it with a swab dipped in micro sol then roll over it with swab until flat.

Joe.

[yaggo]

What is the stuff called "slide mark cement " he dips the decals in

greetings peter

[bossy122]

For bubbles on normal decals, I push I pin point in to break surface and then hit it with a swab dipped in micro sol then roll over it with swab until flat.

Joe.

Yeah, that's what I do as well. The problem I have found with carbons, because they cover such large areas, you knock out one bubble then as soon as you hit it with the blow dryer again, another one ( or several) pop up. It can get a little annoying.

[gp-models]

I heat them and start pressing them down with a cotton swab from the middle, working slowly to the edges to get all water off underneeth, works pretty good.

[jaws]

Indeed the push pin is a fix...BUT use a makeup sponge to flatten out the decal to press out the air bubbles BEFORE you add too much of the decal softener.
Be a bit reserved on how much how hard you use the hair dryer. Letting the decal softener work a bit first helps.
Drying the decal too fast will cause the air bubbles too. Of course once the decal softener is applied you shouldn't touch the decals and only right away.
Solvaset is much stronger than MicroSol and I normally dip my brush in water to help dilute it a little.
Sorry didn't meat to change the thread...
Thanks for sharing the info on the video. Finding more and more Google+ and Youtube videos that are helpful.
Check these out... https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCitULR ... 5cg/videos