Alclad and klear kote

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Malcolm
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Alclad and klear kote

Post by Malcolm »

I've read several comments about using high gloss Alclad finishes (like chrome/polished aluminium) and the best gloss to use over them.

I appreciate that no gloss is probably going to be best, but the raw Alclad finish is not that durable and can quickly wear off (at least for me).

A number of people have suggested using Alclad Klear Kote over the shiny finish, but in my experience the Klear Kote never really dries 'hard'. It's ok when you first pick it up, but after a minute or two it starts get a bit sticky to the touch. And repeated handling ends up with a dull black finish in place of the shine I once had.

I painted the frames for my MFH 908/3 using the normal grey primer/black primer/polished aluminium Alclad/Alclad Klear Kote route and was really happy with the result. But after repeatedly handling (and really, really trying to be careful) it now looks as if I wasted my time.

Does anyone else have this problem, or a solution. Is it just that I need to wait 10 years (or something) for the Klear Kote to really dry hard?

The main reason why I'm asking is that I'm about to spray all the chrome parts of a Tyrrell 003 (there are a lot of them) and I really want to avoid a repeat of my previous 'disaster'.

Any tips would be most welcome.

Best wishes
Malcolm
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Re: Alclad and klear kote

Post by lezdep »

I had same experience with Klear Kote. Did not dry after half a year. So, I don't use it.

Had better experience in terms of drying with Aqua Gloss ACL600. But I could not polish it at all.
And it also runs easily for me.

Best experience I have had was with Mr.Hobby H30 gloss clear. Still I don't attempt to polish it.
But overall it works for me.

Btw, all of above still dull Chrome and Polished Aluminium shades a bit, but less then other clear
coats I've tried.

Hope this helps.
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Re: Alclad and klear kote

Post by Tyrone »

I've had success in the past by coating the alclad clear with zero 2k diamond clear, which sets rock solid over the top of the alclad clear, preserving the alclad metal underneath. Works great for the chrome McLarens.

You have to be wary of the thickness of the paint after so many layers.

Edit! This is with the "Aqua Gloss" Clear from Alclad.
Last edited by Tyrone on Wed Jun 05, 2019 4:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Alclad and klear kote

Post by indygp2001 »

Malcom, You sure asked an AWESOME Question! (As I've been wondering about how to do this very thing).

Tyrone, is there any way you could get EXTREMELY DETAILED in all of the steps involved in your successful process that gave you these very good results - It would be very much appreciated!

Thanx, Kirk
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Re: Alclad and klear kote

Post by Tyrone »

indygp2001 wrote:Malcom, You sure asked an AWESOME Question! (As I've been wondering about how to do this very thing).

Tyrone, is there any way you could get EXTREMELY DETAILED in all of the steps involved in your successful process that gave you these very good results - It would be very much appreciated!

Thanx, Kirk
Righto, so for a chrome McLaren my method is as follows:

Zero grey primer, sand to smooth finish.

Zero Lotus black (I just find this goes on easier than the other black they do) thin layer, sand away any imperfections, and then do a slightly heavier coat to get full coverage whilst keeping it as thin a coat as possible.

Now the tricky bit, you need a gloss finish on the black, here I use 2k diamond finish from zero, a very light misty tack coat, followed by a wet coat a few minutes later. It makes life easier to use more thinner than recommend just to keep this layer as thin as possible.

Next step, if you feel comfortable, is to sand that smooth again, but at this point I usually just leave it as it dries.

Then you have one and only one shot at doing the alclad chrome, low PSI around 15, Keep layering up the chrome / metal and you'll slowly see the chrome build up, the reflection on the clear just gets clearer and clearer with each pass over with the airbrush. When it gets to a point youre happy stop, as you can over do it and then it goes dull very very quickly.

Cover this for 24hrs or so, then slap a mist layer of alclad aqua clear on, this dulls the finish a bit as the mist coat isnt smooth, then after 10 minutes or so hit it with the wet coat. This slightly restores the shine although it's a bit blue / whitey grey as the aqua gloss is milky coloured until its dry, and it dries clear. Then when it's completely dry, time for another layer of the aqua gloss! As it is very thin and slow drying it can run, and not cover all areas. This second wet coat ensures full coverage.

At this point you can add decals or whatever you need to do, the aqua gloss offers more than enough protection for decals, micro sol etc, just dont rub it or scrub it.

Once that's done. when it's all dry, do your normal layer of 2k clear using your preferred method. Just make sure to mist coat it first to avoid wet coating the aqua gloss with 2k directly.

It's vital the aqua gloss covers all the metal paint, as any contact between the last 2k clear coat and the metal will just dull it immediately and a perfect chrome just looks grey.

Hope this helps!

Here's the results on my 2014 McLaren, excuse the dust!

Image

It's not perfectly reflective (dust doesn't help) but it's really hard wearing, and is the best way ive found of consistently getting chrome. That will last as long as the 2k finish will so forever I hope! No matter how much polishing (which I obviously need to do).

It ends up being like 7 paint layers so you can very easily start to lose detail, so scribe those panel lines deep and try and Keep each layer as thin as possible.
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Re: Alclad and klear kote

Post by CBartholomew4677 »

I've been successful in using Alclad Aqua Gloss over their Chrome and HPA. Used it on an S27 MP4/26 and turned out pretty nice. I was able to polish the gloss coat to a very smooth finish. Just have to take your time and keep the surface clean and smooth.
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Re: Alclad and klear kote

Post by jaydar »

I do a lot of motorcycles and that means chrome. I use Acqua Gloss. However, once it is on and dry, I use white cotton gloves for the balance of the build. It just is what it is. This method means no fingerprints which have ruined some work.

Joe.

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Malcolm
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Re: Alclad and klear kote

Post by Malcolm »

A big thank you to everyone who took the time to respond to my question.

It seems clear (and sorry, that was an unintentional pun) that there is no one 'right' way to do this, especially if I want to avoid the 2k clear.

I think I'll probably give the Alclad aqua gloss a try.

Best wishes
Malcolm

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Re: Alclad and klear kote

Post by Andrey »

Chrome Paint Sealer – GC-314
Water based resin designed to protect your chrome paint before applying decals, masking or clear coating
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Re: Alclad and klear kote

Post by Icon_Modeler »

Why not try a different method of application??

I've read in the forums how people like Sergey for example go to the trouble of polishing out the the black undercoat before application of the Alclad. Now I read that when he clear coats he does not polish the clear. Does that not defeat the purpose of polishing the black undercoat?

When I have used Alclad the TWO yes only two times I've had a need for it. This was my experience.

The first time I used Tamiya TS spray as the undercoat. I applied the black and made sure it was a good sound coat of paint with no polishing required. Within 24 hours I applied Alclad Chrome. That was it. Let it dry another 24 hours masked and applied other colors to complete the livery & applied decals. I could apply decal solvent without effect and I could handle it without effect all without using any clear coat over the Alclad.

The second time I also used Tamiya TS spray as the undercoat. I applied the black and made sure it was a good sound coat of paint with no polishing required just as I did the first time. This time however I was not in a position that I could apply the Alclad within 24 hours and I waited a week or ten days before application of the Alclad. This was my mistake. While I had no trouble applying decals over the Alclad finish (this model did not have other colors over the Alclad so I don't know what masking would have done) the finish was easy to remove just with simple touching of the surface.

Lesson learned is that it is best to apply the Alclad over a freshly painted undercoat so that it gets good bit into the undercoat. I think if you do that no clear coat is required over the Alclad to seal it from finger prints or the removal of the finish by touch.

Now I know there are some who are going to say that they must polish the undercoat. My argument to that is that if you are not polishing the clear coat anyway what is the difference.

Tyrone seams to be the only one who has sorted out a method that allows for the clear to be polished. However for me since I seem to paint a little heavier than most it would result in a thickly painted surface and no doubt a loss of surface detail as a result, again, in my case.

Good luck with what ever you do!!
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