Bleeding

[eyckles]

Hi guys,

I have a question. I'm currently working on the Theodore Racing WR3 and having some problems with the white paint. The blue plastic is bleeding thru the white paint after clear coat. I used tamiya primer, zero paints white and 2k clear from zero. I have sanded it back and shot some zero paints silver and then again zero white and 1k clear. Still bleeding thru. Does any of yoy had the same problem and how did you fix it? Thanks in advance.

[jaydar]

Wow. I thought silver was the bleed stopper, so if that is not working i have no idea on what to suggest. Did you prime under the silver??? There is also a surface sealer made by MCW that has good reported results.

http://mcwautomotivefinishes.com/paint/misc.html

Joe.

[Eric1968]

what tamiya primer did you used? For my kit with white body and non-white plastic body, I always first apply a layer of grey primer, then white primer and white color.

[Eagle50]

I saw an article in a Japanese modeling magazine, a couple years ago, where this guy (can't remember his name) soaked his parts in paint thinner (just Tamiya or Mr. Hobby stuff, nothing strong) to let most of the surface colouring "bleed" out.

Then he took a rag, wet with fresh thinner, and rubbed his parts hard, to get the last of the surface colouring off. And, after all that work...

He still had a tiny bit of bleeding in two places, but he was able over-spray body colour to hide it. And he didn't use a silver undercoat, which may have alleviated his bleeding completely.

And from my own personal experience, with the Hasegawa 1/20 Ferrari 312T2 and T3 kits (infamous for bleeding), I found that only spraying light coats, and letting each coat dry completely for two days in a dehydrator, did the trick. I was afraid that I might have bleeding with those kits, but I didn't, even without a silver undercoat. I just gave each light layer lots of hot drying time.

Another trick I learned from that magazine article: soak bits of sprue/ runner in your paint thinner for two days, and see if it colours the thinner. If it does (and it will, with Hasegawa Ferrari 312 plastic), then you know you'll have to think of a counter-measure, before you start painting.

Good luck, Lesley. I'm sure you'll a solution!

Cheers, Chris

[flashman]

I know that Michael of Indycals advocates using Tamiya TS silver leaf as first coat to block the plastic color from bleeding thru the paint coats, while others have different methods.

Check this thread for a discussion of the color bleed subject: http://www.f1m.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=18837

Good luck, and hope you find a solution.

Cameron

[daveyman]

I always prime my kits with Halfords (UK) auto spray. I give it two coats of grey primer and then two coats of white primer. This seals everything in and equalises colour and the white then provides a neutral canvas for applying colour, usually Zero paint for me. I always wet sand and wash between each application of primer.
Never had a problem with bleed thru at all. Priming is super important.

[gp-models]

Best way for me is doing all with 2k colours, starting from Primer, over basecolour to clear. Got this result everytime when i used model colours or 1K stuff.

[Roncla]

When I've had problems with paint bleeding/ hot solvents etching the plastic and similar issues I have used an Isolator called Barcoat.
its widely used in auto refinishing when your spraying hot lacquers over sensitive existing paint like enamels or other dissimilar coatings.
http://www.u-pol.com/us/en/product/upol ... g-isolator
i've found BIN Sealer also works just as well but if your using the aerosol you need to decant and airbrush it as it come out like a fire hose

[shood23]

Zero paints do a sealer that works pretty good even over the notorious tamiya red plastic.

Shaun

[alexpayne]

I had a problem with the Ebbro Gold Leaf Lotus 72 , red plastic, white over the top, then clear. Bleed through
Solved with and automotive etch primer as the first coat. I also believe the Zero sealer works well.