Bleeding

[jaws]

Lesley, From what I have been seeing on the forum the Zero paints need a better primmer than Tamiya to fully seal in the plastic.
Haven't used Zero as it is a bit of a pain to get in the US. So I would look into a better primmer and or sealer than Tamiya primmer.

[Jimmy]

I have never had a bleeding problem, not to say that I never will. Have any of you tried Scalecoat Sealer to see if that would help?

[eyckles]

I have Zero Paints sealer and going to use that. The only thing tha i am afraid of, is that the sealer won't stick well to the plastic.

[gp-models]

Zero paints do a sealer that works pretty good even over the notorious tamiya red plastic.

Shaun

The Tamiya plastic on this is not red, it is dark blue! Don`t know why they didn`t changed the plastic for this one cause it leaves you alone with the problem, in white it would be no problem.

I have Zero Paints sealer and going to use that. The only thing tha i am afraid of, is that the sealer won't stick well to the plastic.

I guess every 2K stuff underneath would help to sort out the problem cause it react with the base and seals the surface, if you have some sprues left over do a test shot on it, pretty sure you find a way, so keep it up Lesley!

[jaydar]

I have Zero Paints sealer and going to use that. The only thing tha i am afraid of, is that the sealer won't stick well to the plastic.

Shouldn't be a problem. To the best of my knowledge, it applies over primer.

Joe.

[shood23]

No no no sealer straight over the plastic then primer on top of that and then obviously colour coat over that.

[jaydar]

Thanks for the correction. I have never had to use it .

Joe.

[gp-models]

Has someone a link to the Zero sealer? Does anyone know what kind of paint it is?

[hirofkd]

I don't think it's bleeding. Instead, the aggressive solvent in the clear is attacking the base paint and primer, allowing the light to reach the plastic, which bounces back to the eyes.

I usually don't use 2K clear, so I don't have any bleeding problems, but when I do, I paint the body as below.
Apply primer, base color, and synthetic lacquer clear (like Tamiya TS13 spray or Mr. Color clear). Once dried (like a few days), I'd apply two layers of very thin 2K clear to build a protective layer. Let the solvent evaporate (for 30 min - 1hr), then apply medium wet 2K clear a few times, followed by one or two full wet coat.

There's a modeler on Youtube who thins Testors enamel with hot lacquer solvent, and carefully sprays straight onto bare plastic. That's one of many reasons why I think the root cause of "bleeding" is the style of airbrushing, instead of the type of plastic or paint.

[mazyen]

What I did with the early Protar 179 red nose which bled through the white was to finally sand it back down, spray it black & then prime & start over again. That “kills“ the red completely.