Shooting the perfect model shot

[monkfish]

Hello.

I'm liking the new forum. Great idea which will hopefully spawn much inspiration and ideas!

I'm into my photography, and love to discover more about techniques and opinions with regards to shooting models.

As my modelling has progressed, I have found that i want to capture my models in the best way possible, and have decided that attempting to shoot the most "lifelike" images would be my aim: I try to make my models look and feel like the real thing.

So my quest has begun, to discover techniques to shoot the most realistic images of my models - as if they were in 1:1 scale rather than 1:20.

One area i have noticed that is critical to this is the location and backdrop that the model is shot with

I see that many modellers shoot on neutral backdrops, but I don't feel that this style of shooting does the models justice.

So I wondered if any of you had any thoughts on how and why you shoot your models in a certain fashion and if anyone has any other ideas on hoe to get your sclae models looking like the real thing.

It would be very interesting to hear your thoughts.

Thanks all
Rich

[vanhookvintage]

By "neutral backdrop" do you mean the studio-like setting of the seamless floor/backdrop of the model? It seems they are usually black, white, or gray, with differing levels of reflectance. Or do you mean a realistic diorama, such as a pit box?

To me, if the car remains the focus despite the base and the background, it's all working. Having said that, today, in preparation of my new found interest in this subject, I bought not only a piece of white background poster board, but also a blue piece that I envision will look good with my Williams builds.

Cheers,
Greg

[monkfish]

Hey Greg,

I have been reading through your post about the lightbox; it's interesting to see how other shoot their models and people opinions on how to get the best results, so thanks for starting that one up.

By "neutral backdrop" do you mean the studio-like setting of the seamless floor/backdrop of the model? It seems they are usually black, white, or gray, with differing levels of reflectance. Or do you mean a realistic diorama, such as a pit box?

By "neutral backdrop", I mean just that.

I've not been modelling long ( about 2-3 years ), but over that time, i have seen many models that really are stunning in their construction, shot in away that doesn't compliment them at all - and to me that is a real shame.

For instance you mention that the model should be the sole focus of the image, and using a bland and uninspiring backdrop obviously draws attention to the model and it's details.

BUT...if you could take a photo of a model that compliments or enhances your build - then that is only going to accentuate the quality of the model.

Here are a couple of my most recent efforts as examples :





Both images were shot using flash guns, on a black cloth draped over a sofa. The only difference is the lens I have used for different effects.

What do you think of the composition and lighting ?

Personally, I really like how the light picks up the colour of the model, adds depth to the model ( as in shadows and highlights ) and helps to give the model and more realistic appearance, as if the car was sat in a dark room.

Of course it;s not perfect, and there is plenty to improve on, so individual opinions really help.

Let me know what you think - be honest!

Rich

[vanhookvintage]

I think WOW! Quite dramatic. And if I can get my models to pop like that, I'd be happy.

Your technique seems so simple, but I'm guessing it took a lot of work to get it just right. Is that a single flash? Is it on the camera or mounted remotely?

[Jeep]

For me, the biggest dead giveway that I'm looking at a picture of a model is the depth of field. Having one part of a model clear and another out of focus is a total tip-off. The way to get deeper depth of field is to put as much light as possible on the model and to then close the iris of the lens all the way (say F22). For an example of this, look at old movies, especially old horror movies from the 20' and 30's when it's dark. A character's face will be clear, but not his ears! That's why modern movie making requires so much lighting: to get that all-important depth of field.

[Starr]

For me, the biggest dead giveway that I'm looking at a picture of a model is the depth of field. Having one part of a model clear and another out of focus is a total tip-off. The way to get deeper depth of field is to put as much light as possible on the model and to then close the iris of the lens all the way (say F22). For an example of this, look at old movies, especially old horror movies from the 20' and 30's when it's dark. A character's face will be clear, but not his ears! That's why modern movie making requires so much lighting: to get that all-important depth of field.

Hi Jeep,

That's exactly my problem when I am taking pictures of my models, the deep of field. I have 7 different sources of light, five of them really close from the model but I still need to learn how to setup my camera correctly.

My camera is a Nikon D3100 with a AF-S Nikkor 18-55 mm 1:3.5-5.6G lens. I need to read the camera's manual again to find out how to setup it.

As for the background, I like to use flat white, beige or black and shot some pictures with each one to see which is the best.

Regards,

Starr

[monkfish]

I think WOW! Quite dramatic. And if I can get my models to pop like that, I'd be happy.
Your technique seems so simple, but I'm guessing it took a lot of work to get it just right. Is that a single flash? Is it on the camera or mounted remotely?

Hey Greg, Thanks!

I used three flash guns - one on each side and slightly behind the model, then one on top of the camera, bouncing off the ceiling. It;s not really a lot of work - just trial and adjustment until I got a result i was happy with.

For me, the biggest dead give way that I'm looking at a picture of a model is the depth of field. Having one part of a model clear and another out of focus is a total tip-off.

That a comment I have heard before - so I think it's something to try on my next shoot. If you look at images of real F1 cars (click here) you can see that there is plenty of perspective, but everything is in focus - indicating a longer depth of field.

However, if you take a picture of a detail of a car - surely you would want that depth, to make the subject look larger than it actually is ?

I think depth adds scale to a shot, but perhaps it's how you apply it...certainly food for thought.

Would you shoot from close up or further away ?

[john-w]

Hello,

here is a photo from my Matra MS80, MFH 1/20th



1. Daylight only (no direct sun)
2. No zoom
3. Aperture 8
4. Exposure time (this is the only variable setting) here 1/25

John-w

[evilduce]

That's a beautiful shot John W! Wish I had a background like that in my model room! Even my stuff would look pretty impressive with that behind them. I'm having a hard enough time trying to keep up with everybody on this forum in model building, let alone be that talented at diorama constructing.

[Terry]

My preference is for outdoor daylight photography in both direct sun and overcast conditions and I do like John-W's MS80 image above. I think placing the model in the real cars natural element captures the shapes and colour of the model in a way that makes it feel more real.