Light Box Test Shots

[vanhookvintage]

Thanks Malcolm,

That free "Photoscape" program I use is, compared to something like Photoshop, pretty basic. I have Photoshop 7 (if I can find it again after the August computer crash), but I've never really taken the time to learn it. It probably has whatever tools I'd need for post-processing. Of course, if I took decent photos in the first place..............

I can shoot RAW, but my version of Photoshop doesn't have the "module" or whatever it's called, to process the files.

I thought I had become pretty knowledgeable about my Nikon D70, but, just as I'm constantly learning about modeling on the site, now I'm learning about photographing models, too!

Will hopefully make some progress toward completing the F1-2000 tonight, and can post some decent pictures soon.

Cheers,
Greg

[MoFo]

A couple of more technical thoughts on your booth...

Bed sheets are pretty heavy. They'll filter out a lot of light. Swapping to something lighter would probably help - you want the light to pass through the box, get diffused, then bounce around to minimize shadows - particularly if you think your pics are dark. I used tissue paper on my home built light box, and was pleased with the results.

Increase the area. The cutouts on your box are relatively small (or rather, the edges are pretty thick). Again, that's going to reduce the amount of light entering. And, potentially, introduce shadows from the framework; the thinner the frame, the smaller the shadows.

Fabric inside. I'd put your fabric (or tissue paper...) on the inside of the frame, not the outside. First, because it'll help bounce the light around - white fabric = reflective; cardboard is not. And secondly, it'll give you more flexibility for shooting: if you get a bit of cardboard in the shot, it's not good; if you get some white fabric (or paper), it just blends in with your backdrop.

Move the model back. First, I'd suggest using a bigger box. IMO, you want depth more than height. Secondly, with that *specific* lighting setup, the model isn't really in the line of fire. Yes, the box will diffuse the light, but it helps if you can aim the lights as directly as possible. I'd also lengthen the amount of fabric on your backdrop, so you can push the model back further - you'll still get the "seamless" look, but more flexibility for positioning is always good.

Also: iron the backdrop. And I wouldn't use the edge of the sheet on your backdrop - it stands out in the photos and further reduces the angles you can shoot. I used paper in mine, that way the edges won't fray, and it stays nice and smooth.

More light. More ambient light would be a big help. You can never have too much. I like a spot on either side (or a spot and a fill), plus an overhead light and a bright room.


My box. I've altered it since this (changed the backdrop), but you can see the frame is pretty minimal, and the "fabric" lets a lot of light in.

[Starr]

First of all I would like to thanks Greg to post the question.

I also need to learn how to take better pictures myself and recently I bought a Nikon D3100 to shot my models with.

A section about Photograph as someone else suggested will be of great help.

Regards,

Starr

[PeteJ]

I just went on line to the Nikon web site and reviewed the owners manual for the D70. I am not sure if it is the same manual as you have but on page 52 is the section for presetting white balance. I hate Nikons English translations but that is the section you want. To me, preset would mean one of the built in white balances, but in this case it means you are using the lighting to set the white balance for a photo. Follow the instructions and it will select the correct settings for your setup.

For a background, you might consider a roll of butcher paper. Use the flat side not the glossy. I use paper on a roll because over time it will get dirty and you can easily change it out. By using a single piece you get the seam where top and bottom meet, out of the photo.

You asked about my setup. Here is a photo of it. I made it from 1" schedule 40 pvc. My diffusers are made from velum which is a form of art paper that is actually sheep skin, sandwiched between foam core display board.

[vanhookvintage]

OK, More good tips.

I started off with white paper towel, but thought the texture would be detrimental, without really trying it. Will keep on experimenting.

And, Yes, I just learned the difference between Auto WB and Pre-set WB. Never knew that before. PRE it is for the light box.

Nice setup PeteJ. And where'd you get that rubber bumper MGB kit? I have a '63 B that will be 50 years old next month.

Cheers,
Greg

[vanhookvintage]

I have a '63 B that will be 50 years old next month.

I mean it's an actual 1:1 car!

[Malcolm]

A couple of things more:

Greg - glad you've managed to get a new area of the forums on the go. You mentioned RAW - I have no idea about NIkons, but my Canon DSLR does have a utility on the CD that came with the camera that allows some manipulation of RAW images. But even if you don't have something similar with the Nikon, Picasa is OK, and I'm sure that GIMP (a free program) handles RAW images more than adequately.

MoFo - that Gulf coloured Audi makes me drool - there just cannot be a better colour combination. Could you tell me more about the kit?

All the best
Malcolm

[MoFo]

[hijack]It`s the BBR kit. 1/43. Zero paints for the Gulf blue. That particular shot is in-progress; I damaged or lost the white metal rear wing, and had to scratch another one out of styrene strip, so this was showing the build progress. Pretty much OOB otherwise - the only other modification I can recall was to lop off the rear fender intakes, drill them out and re-attach. [/hijack]

[PeteJ]

Greg, the MGB GT was Universal Hobbies 1:18 scale die cast. I was a crappy lime green when I got it. A customer asked me to convert it to a replica of the one he owned and this was the result. I learned a new respect for people how rework die cast with that one!

[vanhookvintage]

Yeah, there just seemed so much interest in this topic with this one thread, that Eric added the new forum immediately.

Nice work on the MGB GT.

I too love the Gulf blue and orange. Nostalgia for the Wyer GT40s and 917s, I guess. And more recently, makes me recall Allan Simonsen.

The tip about the vellum has me poised to raid the the pantry for cookie sheet parchment. At first glance (holding it up to the sun), it seems good to be a good light-transmitting/translucent medium. I got some nice new white poster board today for the background, and even some blue to see how that looks.

Lower and wider Gen II Light Box w/parchment coming up.

There was a suggestion to use a longer focal length when shooting the models. Since I am a dinosaur in terms of 35 mm film v. digital photography, I need to make a conversion. My Nikkor 18 - 55 lens on the D70 is equivalent to a 28 - 85 lens on 35 mm. If I was shooting 35 mm, a maximum 85 mm focal length seems more than adequate to me for this kind of work.

I looked at the files for the model shots I submitted with this thread, and they were all 36 - 40 mm focal length on the 18 - 55 lens (digital). So, I'll zoom out to the 55 mm focal length and just move the tripod back, and see how that goes.

My 70 - 300 zoom is about 105 - 450 mm equivalent in 35 mm. Even the minimum seems too long to me.

This is keeping me from finishing my F1-2000. Be careful what you wish for!

Cheers,
Greg