The F1M Forums

Moring all,
For a change of pace I picked something simple to do….. but even simple things don’t always go to plan.
5 x 0.45mm holes drilled for front wing adjustment drilled on each side of the nose cone. First side done no problem.I always find that the second attempt never goes as well as the first…….Second hole up from the bottom is out of position, I filled the hole with stretched sprue so it’s the same density as the originalAnd a day later after it had set thoroughly I re-drilled – close enough.The roll hoop was a bit of a saga, first one turned out well, I used boiling water to soften the 3mm rod before bending round a balsa former, but I then cut it too short……D’oh!It took at least 4 more goes to get another good one (it’s the one on the left), the kit part is the silver one at the topWith rear stays and brackets in place

continued
Making sure it all fits under the cowlThe filler piece to go in the gap under the rear roll bar, first I made a plug that fitted the gap, that was then used to plunge mould the shape in 25thou card and a tiny lip added to support the rear edge (needs to be small to allow the body to lift off past the rollbar).I picked the best one and trimmed it to shape The kit steering rack locates where the forward roll hoop brace attaches, the car is not like this – (see photo in post from 23 Feb) the rack is slightly lower, the mounts are hidden between the inner and outer tub skins, and the front roll bar down tube locates on a cross tube where the kit steering rack was, rather than modify the kit part it was easier to make a new one, it is purposely longer as it should protrude from each side of the tub.Side plates hiding rack mounts – I just noticed the steering rack is upside down, the pinion should be underneathBody tub sanded away to allow the new roll hoop down brace to attach to the cross barCross section view.

Hi all, hope you are all OK in these strange times. Still been working on this, although there have been distractions....
Next up front lower wishbones. The front joint of the front lower wishbone is just attached to the surface of the bodywork, not very positive or accurate, it should go through the front body work and attach to the tub. So I made a jig to hold everything in the right place while I made up the gap..In the jig with cowlMind the gapA hole needs to be made in the cowl where the original attachment point is, positions roughly markedHoles cutThe bodywork also needs to be extended to roughly the pencil lineSo the plan is to slap a piece of 20thou in place and fair it in to the nose.
I developed a paper pattern then cut out the shape in plastic card.

I mentioned there had been distractions Continued from last post.
Glued on, thinned at the front edge as much as possible, then the remaining step faired with filler.During the first 4 races this joint was either left open or covered with blue tape, from Jarama (5th GP round) it had a blister fairing1979 Kyalami – (3rd round)The end of the wishbones were drilled to accept RB Motion rod ends. The front and rear edges of wishbone arms were square, so rounded off – even though you can’t really see it here…….Both ends drilled and rod ends in placeBrackets made as a pair and checked for fit with the rod endBrackets cut to size and fitted in to a slot cut in the tub. To fix in place a dowel pin will be fitted from the top – there should be just enough room to get it in with tweezers!

Last few pics

The kit front damper is mounted halfway down the panel between the top wishbone mounts in the hole you can see, it should be mounted lower down on a subframe, so the lower cowl location tab was removedThe damper mounting hole filled, subframe in place and new dampers madeNext I made the crash structure for the nose, so body back in the jigLast two parts attached

Hi,

You’ve really done a stunning job on this kit!

Pascal

Bravo i follow! good souvenirs

Great work on this one Malc.

Awesome stuff, the amount of difficult scratchwork here is remarkable.