Looks nice!
You should give the steamed cotton swab technic a try on the shell logos, you don`t need to cut them, working from the middle to the outsides and it lays down without wrinkels
2018 Ferrari SF71H 1/20 DTM
Re: 2018 Ferrari SF71H 1/20 DTM
Take a stand!
-
Topic author - F2 Champion
- Posts: 181
- Joined: Fri Dec 29, 2017 6:14 am
- Location: Toronto
- Contact:
- Status: Offline
Re: 2018 Ferrari SF71H 1/20 DTM
I don't think I've heard of the steamed cotton swab technique! I've been working at them with a cotton swab, micro sol and a hair dryer to no avail, I'd love to hear your methodgp-models wrote:Looks nice!
You should give the steamed cotton swab technic a try on the shell logos, you don`t need to cut them, working from the middle to the outsides and it lays down without wrinkels
http://www.f1modelling.com
______________________________________________________________
PM me if you have an MFH 1/20 BT55 for sale (resin version, not metal)
______________________________________________________________
PM me if you have an MFH 1/20 BT55 for sale (resin version, not metal)
Re: 2018 Ferrari SF71H 1/20 DTM
I explained it in a few other threads in the past, works pretty nice on such complex shapes and "hard" decals.SebLeung wrote:I don't think I've heard of the steamed cotton swab technique! I've been working at them with a cotton swab, micro sol and a hair dryer to no avail, I'd love to hear your methodgp-models wrote:Looks nice!
You should give the steamed cotton swab technic a try on the shell logos, you don`t need to cut them, working from the middle to the outsides and it lays down without wrinkels
First is apply the decal the normal way, when it is in position on the model you dip a cotton swab into water, press it on a heated solder iron for a few seconds, then start in the middle of the decal and roll it over the decal from the middle to the outsides. On this special shell logo, i would press the swab first in the middle without rolling it to fix it in position, then in the next steps you heat the swab again and again and start rolling it from the middle to the outsides. You don`t need softener or at least only a small drop of softener that way, the partly heat softens the decal quiet good for a short time and makes it good sticking to the surface. With the hairdryer you heat up the decal plus surface and doing it too long can bring you into trouble, sometimes on small decals you can even blow them away, but i use these technic as well, but on such 3d curved surfaces i prefer the cotton swab method, use it quiet often when doing 1:43 kits where the decal sometimes covers half of the body and needs to be laid down in different directions. On your front wing CF it works also nice when you have hard decals, or old decals which can crack easy. Give it a try on some left over parts and decals to get some experience, i bet you will be surprised how good it works. Keep up the good work!
Take a stand!
-
- Similar Topics
- Replies
- Views
- Last post