Fujimi 1/20 Ferrari 641/2
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Fujimi 1/20 Ferrari 641/2
This build will be a gift for my father. I'll be building it OOB apart from replacement decals from Indycals and fill-in decals from MSM.
The kit itself is much more complex than Tamiya's F1-89 kit, with maybe twice the amount of sprues. The brakes in particular are much better, consisting of multiple parts rather than Tamiya's common practice of just making them in one piece that's difficult to paint.
While test fitting though I couldn't figure out why the gaps along the nose were so huge, I'll be embarrassed to admit it took me a whole 10 minutes of inspection until I realized the body was somewhat warped and the nose twisted to a significant degree. I was super scared to do it but I figured there was no harm in trying, so I warmed a pot of water to steaming temperature (not boiling), and dipped the nose in for 3 seconds at a time, lightly twisting to correct after every dip. I was very pleased with the results, especially given the fact that I thought there was an 80% chance I'd just melt the nose.
Before:
After:
I found it odd that the fuel cap (? I'm not actually sure if this is the fuel cap) was provided as a separate piece to be glued on, but the fit was terrible and a lot of sanding was required to make it flush.
Again, compared to the Tamiya F1-89 kit, the engine was much more detailed and more importantly, properly scaled. I did however notice that the parts are grouped and moulded in such a way that painting will be more difficult. For example, suspension arms are moulded to the top of the gearbox. Small price to pay I suppose.
Shot with 4 layers of Zero Pre-2004 Ferrari Red.
When I did the Tamiya kit I put the decals straight over the semi-gloss Zero Paints and found that it was quite susceptible to silvering, so I decided to what Zero recommended and lay down a tack coat of 2K prior to decals, but to be honest it wasn't much better. Oh well. Next time I'll do a full gloss coat before decals.
Then I did the full gloss coat of 2K which I still can't quite get 100%.
There was a decent amount of orange peel on top of the sidepods, even when using a 50-25-25 mix of clear, thinner, and hardener as recommended on forums. I also find that every time I shoot 2K, the model seems to become statically charged and small dust particles and fibres from all over the room will come in and get stuck in the clear. Anyways. I attempted to polish the orange peel out which I've also only had varied success with. I'd heard that some people swear by the micromesh system to flatten orange peel, and some others just using 2000 grit wet sand, so I decided to try both. On one sidepod I used micromesh before using Mother's 3-step polish and on the other I used 2000, 2500, 3000 before polish. Both had a similar and meh result. Nice and flat but plenty of micro scratches that can be seen when held up to the light. This was even with 3 rounds of polishing. I don't get how you guys do it honestly.
Next I'll be painting the floor.
The kit itself is much more complex than Tamiya's F1-89 kit, with maybe twice the amount of sprues. The brakes in particular are much better, consisting of multiple parts rather than Tamiya's common practice of just making them in one piece that's difficult to paint.
While test fitting though I couldn't figure out why the gaps along the nose were so huge, I'll be embarrassed to admit it took me a whole 10 minutes of inspection until I realized the body was somewhat warped and the nose twisted to a significant degree. I was super scared to do it but I figured there was no harm in trying, so I warmed a pot of water to steaming temperature (not boiling), and dipped the nose in for 3 seconds at a time, lightly twisting to correct after every dip. I was very pleased with the results, especially given the fact that I thought there was an 80% chance I'd just melt the nose.
Before:
After:
I found it odd that the fuel cap (? I'm not actually sure if this is the fuel cap) was provided as a separate piece to be glued on, but the fit was terrible and a lot of sanding was required to make it flush.
Again, compared to the Tamiya F1-89 kit, the engine was much more detailed and more importantly, properly scaled. I did however notice that the parts are grouped and moulded in such a way that painting will be more difficult. For example, suspension arms are moulded to the top of the gearbox. Small price to pay I suppose.
Shot with 4 layers of Zero Pre-2004 Ferrari Red.
When I did the Tamiya kit I put the decals straight over the semi-gloss Zero Paints and found that it was quite susceptible to silvering, so I decided to what Zero recommended and lay down a tack coat of 2K prior to decals, but to be honest it wasn't much better. Oh well. Next time I'll do a full gloss coat before decals.
Then I did the full gloss coat of 2K which I still can't quite get 100%.
There was a decent amount of orange peel on top of the sidepods, even when using a 50-25-25 mix of clear, thinner, and hardener as recommended on forums. I also find that every time I shoot 2K, the model seems to become statically charged and small dust particles and fibres from all over the room will come in and get stuck in the clear. Anyways. I attempted to polish the orange peel out which I've also only had varied success with. I'd heard that some people swear by the micromesh system to flatten orange peel, and some others just using 2000 grit wet sand, so I decided to try both. On one sidepod I used micromesh before using Mother's 3-step polish and on the other I used 2000, 2500, 3000 before polish. Both had a similar and meh result. Nice and flat but plenty of micro scratches that can be seen when held up to the light. This was even with 3 rounds of polishing. I don't get how you guys do it honestly.
Next I'll be painting the floor.
http://www.f1modelling.com
______________________________________________________________
PM me if you have an MFH 1/20 BT55 for sale (resin version, not metal)
______________________________________________________________
PM me if you have an MFH 1/20 BT55 for sale (resin version, not metal)
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Re: Fujimi 1/20 Ferrari 641/2
Very nice start! Thanks for sharing.
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Re: Fujimi 1/20 Ferrari 641/2
Very nice start, looking forward to see the rest!
RE: still able to see micro-scratches, I noticed that you went up to about 3000 micromesh. By comparison, I start at 3600 (sometimes 3200, if very rough orange peel), then on to 4000, 6000, 8000, 12000, and then polish with Tamiya Coarse, Fine, and Finish polishing compounds. If you look close enough you can still see micro-scratches, but if I don't press down too hard -especially when using the 3200 or 3600, then scoring/scratches are quite minimal in the end.
RE: still able to see micro-scratches, I noticed that you went up to about 3000 micromesh. By comparison, I start at 3600 (sometimes 3200, if very rough orange peel), then on to 4000, 6000, 8000, 12000, and then polish with Tamiya Coarse, Fine, and Finish polishing compounds. If you look close enough you can still see micro-scratches, but if I don't press down too hard -especially when using the 3200 or 3600, then scoring/scratches are quite minimal in the end.
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Topic author - F2 Champion
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Re: Fujimi 1/20 Ferrari 641/2
Sorry I should clarify:Jeff wrote:Very nice start, looking forward to see the rest!
RE: still able to see micro-scratches, I noticed that you went up to about 3000 micromesh. By comparison, I start at 3600 (sometimes 3200, if very rough orange peel), then on to 4000, 6000, 8000, 12000, and then polish with Tamiya Coarse, Fine, and Finish polishing compounds. If you look close enough you can still see micro-scratches, but if I don't press down too hard -especially when using the 3200 or 3600, then scoring/scratches are quite minimal in the end.
On the right sidepod I used the full range of Micromesh sanding pads (3600 -> 12000) then hit it with Mother's polishing compounds, and on the left sidepod I used 2000, 2500, 3000 wet sand then polished the same and ended with very similar results. Perhaps marginally more micro scratches on the sandpaper side. I think it's my sanding technique that is the problem though, I think I might be pressing too hard. It's okay though I made it clear to my father that I build this kit for him on the condition that I get to use it as a testbed for my modelling techniques
http://www.f1modelling.com
______________________________________________________________
PM me if you have an MFH 1/20 BT55 for sale (resin version, not metal)
______________________________________________________________
PM me if you have an MFH 1/20 BT55 for sale (resin version, not metal)
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Re: Fujimi 1/20 Ferrari 641/2
haha all good. yes if you press less hard you may get better results - happy experimenting!
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Re: Fujimi 1/20 Ferrari 641/2
Meguiars scratch x will remove scratches then just polish,but bear in mind to get super results adjust the last spray coat to low psi in compressor then the final wet coat you should not get orange peel and this hardly needs polishing only if you wish to wet sand and polish with the pads like the legend late Peter Wingfield used to do.
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Re: Fujimi 1/20 Ferrari 641/2
I actually did also try Scratch X to remove the scratches and it didn’t seem to do much. Honestly I might be sanding too hard and not polishing hard enough.acer709 wrote:Meguiars scratch x will remove scratches then just polish,but bear in mind to get super results adjust the last spray coat to low psi in compressor then the final wet coat you should not get orange peel and this hardly needs polishing only if you wish to wet sand and polish with the pads like the legend late Peter Wingfield used to do.
What’s low PSI, 15? I find when I’m trying to go for my final coat of 2K, the airbrush spray and landing 2K particles will disturb the surrounding area of the spray, causing uneven finish. This is only my 3rd model and 3rd time using 2K though so my experience is limited.
http://www.f1modelling.com
______________________________________________________________
PM me if you have an MFH 1/20 BT55 for sale (resin version, not metal)
______________________________________________________________
PM me if you have an MFH 1/20 BT55 for sale (resin version, not metal)
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Re: Fujimi 1/20 Ferrari 641/2
Very good looking . Keep 'Em comin'.
My completed Models:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/150229040 ... 3349714787
https://www.flickr.com/photos/150229040 ... 3349714787
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Re: Fujimi 1/20 Ferrari 641/2
Very nice looking build, I do like this car. I have never used the Micro Mesh Systems, I go with the 1500 wet n dry paper, cutting compound and then a mix of polish and even the Meguires Scratch X...
This is done on automotive 2K
This is done on automotive 2K
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Re: Fujimi 1/20 Ferrari 641/2
Nice save on the twisted nose!
Cheers, Chris
Cheers, Chris
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