MFH Porsche 917 Le Mans Winner 1971 in 1:12 Scale
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Re: MFH Porsche 917 Le Mans Winner 1971 in 1:12 Scale
Hello,
it took a while since my last update. The reason is that I've started to build a second (stand-alone) engine, which I will place beside the car once completed.
This separate engine (shown on the left side) will also get a modified oil distribution casting, which is according to the original engine.
For mounting/assembly reasons, MFH had to design the oil distribution part a bit different. No problem as this will be hidden later anyway in the car. However with a stand-alone engine, the difference to the real engine will get visible, hence I've decided to modify the MFH part accordingly.
MFH part on the milling machine
Comparison modified part vs. original part
On the gearbox of the real engine, there are 2 mounting plates fixed with Allen Bolts (one each on left/right side), where the drive shafts to the wheels are attached. I've scratch built this plates for the stand-alone engine
Plate added on left side
On the right side, a plate has been added as well. In the real car, there is also a copper strap for earthening the gear box to the chassis frame. This copper strap can be perfectly replicated with a strip of solder sucking wick (1.5mm width), which is used to desolder electronic parts from e.g. printed circuit boards
Next was to start with the ignition distributors and the alternators. In my previous builds of 917 engines, I've used the MFH original parts. For this build, I've decided to turn new parts for the transmission belt wheels for both alternators and for the fuel pump
it took a while since my last update. The reason is that I've started to build a second (stand-alone) engine, which I will place beside the car once completed.
This separate engine (shown on the left side) will also get a modified oil distribution casting, which is according to the original engine.
For mounting/assembly reasons, MFH had to design the oil distribution part a bit different. No problem as this will be hidden later anyway in the car. However with a stand-alone engine, the difference to the real engine will get visible, hence I've decided to modify the MFH part accordingly.
MFH part on the milling machine
Comparison modified part vs. original part
On the gearbox of the real engine, there are 2 mounting plates fixed with Allen Bolts (one each on left/right side), where the drive shafts to the wheels are attached. I've scratch built this plates for the stand-alone engine
Plate added on left side
On the right side, a plate has been added as well. In the real car, there is also a copper strap for earthening the gear box to the chassis frame. This copper strap can be perfectly replicated with a strip of solder sucking wick (1.5mm width), which is used to desolder electronic parts from e.g. printed circuit boards
Next was to start with the ignition distributors and the alternators. In my previous builds of 917 engines, I've used the MFH original parts. For this build, I've decided to turn new parts for the transmission belt wheels for both alternators and for the fuel pump
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Re: MFH Porsche 917 Le Mans Winner 1971 in 1:12 Scale
View of the engine front with plenty of new/modified parts.
It's a mystery to me, why MFH did not include the 2 prominent oil hoses between the oil distribution casting and the camshaft covers in their instruction sheet. All of MFH's 1:24 Porsche 917 kits do include this. No complain but an observation. I've replicated this missing parts with scratch built fittings and the excellent braided lines from PRO TECH
On rear top of the engine, there is a tube, which connects (later in the assembly process) the oil breather output to the oil tank via a hose. This part is missing in the MFH kit and was made on the lathe.
Thanks for your interest. The work on the engine will go on in my next update
It's a mystery to me, why MFH did not include the 2 prominent oil hoses between the oil distribution casting and the camshaft covers in their instruction sheet. All of MFH's 1:24 Porsche 917 kits do include this. No complain but an observation. I've replicated this missing parts with scratch built fittings and the excellent braided lines from PRO TECH
On rear top of the engine, there is a tube, which connects (later in the assembly process) the oil breather output to the oil tank via a hose. This part is missing in the MFH kit and was made on the lathe.
Thanks for your interest. The work on the engine will go on in my next update
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Re: MFH Porsche 917 Le Mans Winner 1971 in 1:12 Scale
Wow so perfect. Thanks for the detailing lessons!!!
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Re: MFH Porsche 917 Le Mans Winner 1971 in 1:12 Scale
Oh wow, that's outstanding modeling.
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Re: MFH Porsche 917 Le Mans Winner 1971 in 1:12 Scale
I have followed along in absolute amazement of the added detail.
The part I have missed is the colors/finishes you chose for the engine/transaxle cases and valve covers.
The several reference photos I have seen are all different colors. I am not sure but they may be from different years.
Could you share the colors you used?
Thanks,
Joe.
The part I have missed is the colors/finishes you chose for the engine/transaxle cases and valve covers.
The several reference photos I have seen are all different colors. I am not sure but they may be from different years.
Could you share the colors you used?
Thanks,
Joe.
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Re: MFH Porsche 917 Le Mans Winner 1971 in 1:12 Scale
Thanks for asking, Joe. This is my "way" for the color finish of the P917 engine parts (engine body, transaxle cases, valve covers, etc.):
step 1: Alclad grey primer on resin as well as on WM casted parts. Using the grey primer is key. The black primer won't do the job for my technique
step 2: a very light glaze of Alclad steel (sometimes blended with other Alclad metallizers). This glaze coat over the grey primer (which still need to shine through), gives a subtile shade of metallic look typical for casted parts
step 3: a subtile wash with highly thinned Tamiya semi gloss black (less is more) and after the wash, applying a very, very light coat of Tamiya flat black with the air-gun on selected areas of the parts
step 4: final weathering with pastel chalks, using a brush and different colors to "simulate" oil leakage, dust, scratches, etc. This final step also adds a final very subtile "dust" layer of reddish/brownish color to the parts
As a basic rule, I avoid a heavy metallic look and shine of the finished engine parts to avoid running the risk of a "toys" appearance. Within some bounds, you can control/shift the final color of the metal casted parts with the thickness of the Alclad coat over the grey primer and the "dust" layer of pastel chalks.
I'm sure, there are many other ways to get also to the desired result.
To get the real appearance of the finished parts across with my pictures on F1M is almost impossible due to the ambient light conditions when taking the pictures and the high jpg-compression factor I need to match the 256k Byte picture size rule. What basically counts is the real look of the finished parts at daylight and I'm pretty happy with that.
step 1: Alclad grey primer on resin as well as on WM casted parts. Using the grey primer is key. The black primer won't do the job for my technique
step 2: a very light glaze of Alclad steel (sometimes blended with other Alclad metallizers). This glaze coat over the grey primer (which still need to shine through), gives a subtile shade of metallic look typical for casted parts
step 3: a subtile wash with highly thinned Tamiya semi gloss black (less is more) and after the wash, applying a very, very light coat of Tamiya flat black with the air-gun on selected areas of the parts
step 4: final weathering with pastel chalks, using a brush and different colors to "simulate" oil leakage, dust, scratches, etc. This final step also adds a final very subtile "dust" layer of reddish/brownish color to the parts
As a basic rule, I avoid a heavy metallic look and shine of the finished engine parts to avoid running the risk of a "toys" appearance. Within some bounds, you can control/shift the final color of the metal casted parts with the thickness of the Alclad coat over the grey primer and the "dust" layer of pastel chalks.
I'm sure, there are many other ways to get also to the desired result.
To get the real appearance of the finished parts across with my pictures on F1M is almost impossible due to the ambient light conditions when taking the pictures and the high jpg-compression factor I need to match the 256k Byte picture size rule. What basically counts is the real look of the finished parts at daylight and I'm pretty happy with that.
Re: MFH Porsche 917 Le Mans Winner 1971 in 1:12 Scale
Hi Uli,
Here is a link to the lens cleaning cloth that we talked about for simulating chopped matt fiberglass.
https://www.amazon.de/BlauBeach%C2%AE-Q ... ens+tissue
It seams that Kodak no longer sell it but Tiffin were the company that was making it all along.
For the price I suggest that you get a pack and do some testing.
As always, I'm looking forward to the next up-date.
Cheers,
Chris
Here is a link to the lens cleaning cloth that we talked about for simulating chopped matt fiberglass.
https://www.amazon.de/BlauBeach%C2%AE-Q ... ens+tissue
It seams that Kodak no longer sell it but Tiffin were the company that was making it all along.
For the price I suggest that you get a pack and do some testing.
As always, I'm looking forward to the next up-date.
Cheers,
Chris
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Topic author - F2 Champion
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Re: MFH Porsche 917 Le Mans Winner 1971 in 1:12 Scale
Hello,
hope you could enjoy a peaceful and merry Xmas and thanks for your continuous interest in this WIP.
@ Chris, thank you very much for your tip regarding the cleaning paper to simulate a glass fiber texture. I've ordered this straight away.
Today, there is only a minor update on the engine, which is about the throttle linkage system, which controls the left/right bank Throttle Sliders as well as the Fuel Pump via a system of connected rods and levers.
MFH provides the necessary parts as WM casted parts, two clear plastic parts (C6) and two Springs.
The first adjustment is on the Springs, which are too short in length. They need to be pulled longer to 17.5mm correct length !
WM part M107 has been replaced by a Brass rod, which required to rework all other parts as well to fit this rod (see picture below). Also the Throttle Linkage Rod was completely scratch built.
And here some pics with the complete Throttle Linkage System assembled.
Guess, that's my last update for this year. Wish you all a happy new year and see you again in 2018.
Best regards,
Uli
hope you could enjoy a peaceful and merry Xmas and thanks for your continuous interest in this WIP.
@ Chris, thank you very much for your tip regarding the cleaning paper to simulate a glass fiber texture. I've ordered this straight away.
Today, there is only a minor update on the engine, which is about the throttle linkage system, which controls the left/right bank Throttle Sliders as well as the Fuel Pump via a system of connected rods and levers.
MFH provides the necessary parts as WM casted parts, two clear plastic parts (C6) and two Springs.
The first adjustment is on the Springs, which are too short in length. They need to be pulled longer to 17.5mm correct length !
WM part M107 has been replaced by a Brass rod, which required to rework all other parts as well to fit this rod (see picture below). Also the Throttle Linkage Rod was completely scratch built.
And here some pics with the complete Throttle Linkage System assembled.
Guess, that's my last update for this year. Wish you all a happy new year and see you again in 2018.
Best regards,
Uli
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Topic author - F2 Champion
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Re: MFH Porsche 917 Le Mans Winner 1971 in 1:12 Scale
Hello again,
my last update was about the throttle linkages/levers system of the engine. A clearly visible part of this system is the control rod which connects the main operating lever at the fuel pump with the left throttle slide. In the original MFH part (M108), the (very simplified) control rod and the left throttle slide are casted in one piece. I'm going to show a way, on how a much more realistically looking control rod can be build from scratch with some basic materials and w/o any sophisticated tools.
The control rod basically consists of a brass tube and two rod ends. The rod end can be made of a crimp, a stainless steel tube (or silver painted brass tube) and a M0.8mm nut (step by step sequence see pics below)
Next is to scratch build the guide rails for the fuel pipes which run from the fuel pump to the intake trumpets. These rails are not included in the MHF kit but are required for a faithful routing of the fuel lines later in the building process. The rails can be easily made of a Evergreen strip (cross-section 1mm x 0.5mm). Holes for guiding the fuel pipes are 0.6mm.
MFH did provide the guide rails (part M238) which are attached to the cooling fan. However, this parts are out-of-scale and do not represent the real thing, hence this parts have been scratch built as well.
Next update will be about building/detailing the oil filter casting and getting the engine ready for adding the ignition wiring and fuel pipes.
my last update was about the throttle linkages/levers system of the engine. A clearly visible part of this system is the control rod which connects the main operating lever at the fuel pump with the left throttle slide. In the original MFH part (M108), the (very simplified) control rod and the left throttle slide are casted in one piece. I'm going to show a way, on how a much more realistically looking control rod can be build from scratch with some basic materials and w/o any sophisticated tools.
The control rod basically consists of a brass tube and two rod ends. The rod end can be made of a crimp, a stainless steel tube (or silver painted brass tube) and a M0.8mm nut (step by step sequence see pics below)
Next is to scratch build the guide rails for the fuel pipes which run from the fuel pump to the intake trumpets. These rails are not included in the MHF kit but are required for a faithful routing of the fuel lines later in the building process. The rails can be easily made of a Evergreen strip (cross-section 1mm x 0.5mm). Holes for guiding the fuel pipes are 0.6mm.
MFH did provide the guide rails (part M238) which are attached to the cooling fan. However, this parts are out-of-scale and do not represent the real thing, hence this parts have been scratch built as well.
Next update will be about building/detailing the oil filter casting and getting the engine ready for adding the ignition wiring and fuel pipes.
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Re: MFH Porsche 917 Le Mans Winner 1971 in 1:12 Scale
Next is to build and detail the Oil Filter Case (MFH parts M103 and M120). What is missing in the kit are some key features of the original. Especially when building a stand-alone engine, these parts will make a great difference in a realistic appearance.
The Oil Filter Case of the original contains an adjustable pressure relief valve, which maintains a constant oil pressure for the crankshaft assembly. This missing part has been made on the lathe. The return fuel line from the metering unit (included in the fuel pump) runs to a union on the Oil Filter Case and from there back to the main tank. The required fittings have been built from scratch and the complete assembly was attached on top of the Oil Filter Casting.
With all Ancillaries installed, the engine is ready now for the ignition wiring and fuel lines. This will be the subject of my next update.
BR,
Uli
The Oil Filter Case of the original contains an adjustable pressure relief valve, which maintains a constant oil pressure for the crankshaft assembly. This missing part has been made on the lathe. The return fuel line from the metering unit (included in the fuel pump) runs to a union on the Oil Filter Case and from there back to the main tank. The required fittings have been built from scratch and the complete assembly was attached on top of the Oil Filter Casting.
With all Ancillaries installed, the engine is ready now for the ignition wiring and fuel lines. This will be the subject of my next update.
BR,
Uli
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