1/12 Ferrari 330P4

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gp-models
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Re: 1/12 Ferrari 330P4

Post by gp-models »

ferrarissimus wrote:Your 312 looks fantastic. I did both methods and I don't know what is the better one. But there were not those super polished cars in the aera of riveted cars. We take modern paint technology with base coats and 2K clear coats for our cars from the 50th to the 70th, but they used only one paint coat. The model cars look better with the deep shiny clear coat, but it is not realistic.
So in my opinion it is better first the rivets and later on the paint job.

Cheers ferrarissimus
I would agree to some points, like time period cars had not such a shiny gloss, but on a model i see it different. It is more an interpretation of the builder/artist and i do it similar, a point where i leave the 1 on 1 way. Everyone has a different thinking of such point i guess, sure it is not realy matching, but i`ve seen builds on where it leaves a bad note, cause it reflects a bit your skill in doing such paint job, a not so shiny surface often comes from less skills, so if someone put a lot of work in details and mess by paintjob....it brings not the result you maybe like yourself.
Doing the rivets infront of painting has one bad point, the rivets will sink into the colour and clear and make them bigger as they are, and how to polish the surfaces between?? No matter how thin you try to paint, the rivets appears more round and bigger then doing them seperated. If taking care of shine of the clear, it is a must to prefend the rivets from sinking into colour!
My thinking in this point....
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JamesB
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Re: 1/12 Ferrari 330P4

Post by JamesB »

gp-models wrote:...but i`ve seen builds on where it leaves a bad note, cause it reflects a bit your skill in doing such paint job, a not so shiny surface often comes from less skills
No way. Why? And why not to think it comes from just wanting it like that?
I mean, it's like if I draw Conan the Barbarian holding an M16 because it's harder to do than without.
I mean, it's not as if we have to prove we can get shinny finish. Need it? go for it! No need? skip it, all the better if it's easier. Anyway getting a convincent "not that shinny" finish os not easy either.
Just my opinion
:D

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Re: 1/12 Ferrari 330P4

Post by jaydar »

To me it depends what i am building. If it is a piece in the Porsche or Ferrari museum, it gets the full gloss treatment regardless of period. If it is post race it is dirty with track grime and debris. If it is pre-race then it is period.

See, it depends!!

Joe.
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Re: 1/12 Ferrari 330P4

Post by mvc »

Great to hear from you all after such a long time ;)

In response to the discussion: personally I prefer not to clear coat this type of car, but I will do some polishing to remove (out of scale) orange peel and dust particles. In reality a car like this has a simple, practical paint job with some cheap stickers (and sometimes tape) on top. However I think it's not just a matter of realism: there is a point in making the model, as an object on its own, look as good as possible, so I fully appreciate well executed high gloss finishes.

Concerning the rivets: the ones on that 312 look absolutely brilliant, so I immediately started counting the number of rivets required -- and my money as well. Rough estimate is that I'd need 600-800 pieces, approximately 100-150 euros... I couldn't make up my mind yet, so I decided to run away from the problem and did some work on the oil/water tanks instead.
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Re: 1/12 Ferrari 330P4

Post by Leftkeys »

I’m really glad to see this back.
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Re: 1/12 Ferrari 330P4

Post by VR2 »

mvc, fantastic build so far !

Regarding the rivets you may look at the etched rivets of Minidelta:

http://www.bestbalsakits.com/tamiya/tam ... umber=3207

Minidelta has produced these etched rivets especially for their 1/12 330P4 kit. I use this rivets for many occasions, not just for the 30P4 (eg. on the wheels for my 917/30). Great product at an affordable price/rivet.
Porsche917-30_Wheel.jpg
BR, Uli
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gp-models
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Re: 1/12 Ferrari 330P4

Post by gp-models »

JamesB wrote:
gp-models wrote:...but i`ve seen builds on where it leaves a bad note, cause it reflects a bit your skill in doing such paint job, a not so shiny surface often comes from less skills
No way. Why? And why not to think it comes from just wanting it like that?
I mean, it's like if I draw Conan the Barbarian holding an M16 because it's harder to do than without.
I mean, it's not as if we have to prove we can get shinny finish. Need it? go for it! No need? skip it, all the better if it's easier. Anyway getting a convincent "not that shinny" finish os not easy either.
Just my opinion
:D
Well, i know what you mean James, but like in realty, i see paint jobs a different way then none teached ones depending on my real job. Not to make anyone bad or even saying that they did a bad job, but it all depends on skills finaly to get a museum piece. Don`t understand me wrong, i know that not each model has to be a museum piece, but thinking of such high prieced models, i would try to give them all of my attention with thinking of my money i spend to it. Have to say that i like those shiny models.
I know builds where the builder tried to achieve such less shiny gloss coat, and they matched it brilliant. On others i`ve seen results on which i knew it it based on painting mistakes, that`s what i was pointing for.
The discussion, to me, is more, does the builder takes more likely the way to be totaly matching the time period details, or even takes his oppertunity to go different on the paint job like an artist with his own special note, cause paint job makes the biggest impression of the model overall, that`s why you can mess up a great build easy by only the paint job! To go for a full shiny surface which might not be time period matching is not a shame in my view, look at CMC models, they are all full shiny done.

@ Marcus: Why don`t you use the solder balls for the body parts like on the interieur you did? I know it will be difficult to apply them finaly, but maybe you find a way to apply them in an economic and accurate way, would safe you a lot of money and opens the oppertunity maybe. ;)
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Re: 1/12 Ferrari 330P4

Post by rasputen »

Marcus, regarding the rivets on the bodywork, I am planning on filling in all of the rivet holes in the front nose piece on mine. In examining photos of the real car, the rivets are almost completely invisible on this piece. I bought a set of the Minidelta rivets but these do not look appropriate for the rest of the external bodywork. They appear to be a simulation of a large pop rivet with a hole in the middle, not a solid rivet that would have been bucked with a die. I hope you have test fitted the doors and the small bodywork sections that sit in front of them. These pieces must line up with the front bodywork, the rocker panels, the cowling, and the doors, all at the same time. These pieces were warped on mine, and require that material be added to them to make the curved part of the door gaps look reasonable.
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Re: 1/12 Ferrari 330P4

Post by mvc »

Time for an update.

Thanks for your advice and comments -- I still didn't make up my mind, but I feel the rivets on this car should be very subtle. I have no period detail pics, but on pics of the whole car they are hardly visible.

@rasputen: I have not checked for warped parts in detail yet, but I will certainly do so. At first glance everything looks good though. The plan is to have the side pontoons permanently in place, and then go from there and do what's necessary (and possible within the limits of my skills :wink: ) to get things fitting.

One extra headache popped up: since I attached the wheels, it appears that the shock/spring assembly cannot carry the weight of one of the back wheels when lifted. That will ruin the anti roll bar, and it looks hard to fix... need to place a few drops of CA inside the spring assembly but I'm not looking forward to take the whole thing apart again :roll:
Both halves stuck together with CA glue
Both halves stuck together with CA glue
Filled the gaps with low temp solder
Filled the gaps with low temp solder
Thinning down those thick rims from below
Thinning down those thick rims from below
Results of the last couple of days!
Results of the last couple of days!
Happy with these, just needs them a little less shiny
Happy with these, just needs them a little less shiny
The hard work is done with these dremel bits -- work great, but these scare me when moving so close to my fingers...
The hard work is done with these dremel bits -- work great, but these scare me when moving so close to my fingers...
Looks like I'm missing these parts. From what I can learn from the manual, there should be a .5 mm PE sheet with just these two parts, but they're not in the box. Does anyone have experience with contacting MFH for replacements?
Looks like I'm missing these parts. From what I can learn from the manual, there should be a .5 mm PE sheet with just these two parts, but they're not in the box. Does anyone have experience with contacting MFH for replacements?
Thanks for watching,

Marcus
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Re: 1/12 Ferrari 330P4

Post by rasputen »

Yes, if you send them a note to cus@modelfactoryhiro.com, include the kit number and part number (E46), Mrs Hiro will put them in the mail to you. I was also able to purchase a windshield washer bag from the 250GTO kit to mount in the RF wheel well, and the cast cowling piece and battery parts from the 412P kit that were omitted from the 330P4 kit.

Here are the part numbers for those:

Kit K562 1/12 scale Ferrari 412P

M114 battery top
M109 battery bottom
M138 cowl

Kit K467 1/12 scale Ferrari 250 GTO

M145 washer bottle
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