1/12 Protar Ferrari 126C2

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JamesB
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Re: 1/12 Protar Ferrari 126C2

Post by JamesB »

Besides, the worts of the wheels is tyres (shape, size, raised letters) and life expectation: with not much time, rims will melt. Or tyres, or both...
I have a nice solution (not expensive) for wheels. will PM you! as promised.
PS: yes, and that's the joy of this place. Besides, when someone makes a kit like this, we stay around looking and talking as if it was some kind of barbecue!! :lol:
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Fiatphile
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Re: 1/12 Protar Ferrari 126C2

Post by Fiatphile »

Again, great info. Guess I will go with what comes in kit. Have seen a set, but the price is just too steep for me. I enjoy the hobby much, but I also like to eat!
As always thanks for the info. Just for arguments sake, is there a set one could use from Tamiya for this?.
Rick

PS: Painting to begin tomarrow.
I feel the need for speed.
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Re: 1/12 Protar Ferrari 126C2

Post by Fiatphile »

JamesB wrote:Besides, the worts of the wheels is tyres (shape, size, raised letters) and life expectation: with not much time, rims will melt. Or tyres, or both...
I have a nice solution (not expensive) for wheels. will PM you! as promised.
PS: yes, and that's the joy of this place. Besides, when someone makes a kit like this, we stay around looking and talking as if it was some kind of barbecue!! :lol:
Did not see your post. I have PMd you for your suggestion.
Yes, the real draw back too Protar kits are the poor tires that melt and or go flat.
Thanks for your help.
Barbecues are fun.......8)
Rick
I feel the need for speed.

accuracing
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Re: 1/12 Protar Ferrari 126C2

Post by accuracing »

The stability of the rubber (or synthetic rubber) seems to vary a lot.
The tires on my kit date way back to the early 80's and they seem fine, no adverse reaction yet.
One of the things that helps is to put spacers under the chassis so that the weight of the kit does not transfer to the tires.

Other usual precaution, keep your model away from UV light. Natural light will alter your model in so many ways. Stuff gets brittle, color fades away, things get sticky, etc..
If you set your model inside a individual showcase, it might be a good idea to have a vent hole under the car to let the air circulate. Paint and adhesive will release some chemistry for quite a while after completion of your model.

In the end, we always hope that these built up models will last forever, but they rarely do.

Still, I will keep building them!

Cheers
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Fiatphile
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Re: 1/12 Protar Ferrari 126C2

Post by Fiatphile »

All good suggestions. One other I add, a trick I learned from Pocher kits.
Stuff the tires on the inside with a filler. Cotton and tissue works well.
After all Pocher kits came from the same country and as far as I remember, same problems existed with those tired as well. Again, all good advice. I display my works in a set of tall book cases that allow air to move, even with glass fronts, away from direct
sun light. Lucite blocks are used to support the weight of the models. Pocher kits get
brass uprights under the chassis to support them. I have numerous Protar kits, most, the tires look fresh, some are in poor shape. The ones with this kit look to be in great
shape, albeit they are the wrong size as suggested.
If no others can be sourced, will have to go with.
I feel the need for speed.
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Re: 1/12 Protar Ferrari 126C2

Post by Fiatphile »

Is it not wonderful how much one can learn here. I know a individual that hates Protar
kit just because of the tires.
One is able to gleen from a vast resource of knowledge here and many are willing to help. After all, they have dealt with the same issue and though each has a different way to solve. Their willingness to help is refreshing in this world where most could care less. It's like each one is building along with you. I have been apart of many Forums, but have never found people so willing to share and help. Thank you all. Keep the suggestions coming guys.
Rick
I feel the need for speed.
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Re: 1/12 Protar Ferrari 126C2

Post by CK »

Just to add a cent on my experience with tire problems.

I have a Revell Jaguar XKSS kit from the 90's. The rubber tires are very pretty and detailed. Unfortunately, the rubber reacts with styrene and melts it. So I make rubber mold of the original rubber tire and cast a new set with silicone rubber, which is a much more stable compound.

For a 1/12 F1 tire with no tread pattern, it should be straight forward. It can also be cast as a complete solid piece if you like.
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Re: 1/12 Protar Ferrari 126C2

Post by Fiatphile »

Cool, but beyond this mere mortals skill. But is a interesting take on the problem of tires, compounds and reaction.
Great advice CK.
Rick
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Re: 1/12 Protar Ferrari 126C2

Post by Fiatphile »

CK wrote:Just to add a cent on my experience with tire problems.

I have a Revell Jaguar XKSS kit from the 90's. The rubber tires are very pretty and detailed. Unfortunately, the rubber reacts with styrene and melts it. So I make rubber mold of the original rubber tire and cast a new set with silicone rubber, which is a much more stable compound.

For a 1/12 F1 tire with no tread pattern, it should be straight forward. It can also be cast as a complete solid piece if you like.
Thanks to JamesB here on the Forum,
problem of tires is solved. Again, what I love about this place, willingness to help and advise. Believe your solution to tire fix is about the same as you suggested. Oh boy, package coming from across the Big Pond.
Rick
I feel the need for speed.

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Re: 1/12 Protar Ferrari 126C2

Post by vontrips »

Fiatphile wrote:Steady process of hand fitting the parts. Those areas that look like parting lines have been sanded smooth, but a line remains denoting where it once was. The main parts of the block/trans was molded in the gold color, of which looks very close to the protective coating Ferrari used. However, from photos I have studied, only the transmission appears to be coated, the rest looks like the metal the parts was made from. Of all the areas that had to have sink marks....valve covers. Every one of these I
have seen built, they were left alone and glare out at you. Going to try and fill them, hopefully not destroying and of the details of the cover. Turbo shroud was another area that required much attention to fix mold pin points and sink marks. All in all coming along well, but slow.
Interesting build! I have one in the stash waiting for some enthusiasm! Can't believe how bad those sink marks are on the valve covers...gonna have to check mine now! Have you sorted them yet?
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