1/12th scale RE50 T-car
1/12th scale RE50 T-car
Friendship has this things.
You start discussing technicals details with someone daring to make a scratch RE50... and end up making one.
You know: "Who's the more foolish, the fool, or the fool who follows him?" as Obi Wan would say.
I wanna say that yes, friendship leads to do unforeseen things. In some 34 years of scratch building F1 cars (actually since 34 years ago, I did take some dry spells I guess!! ) I had never done this: start from scratch a 1/12 F1 car. I tried to modify one, but did not finish.
I owed Cedric this one, since I said I'd follow him with the RE60 and fnally didn't. So I said, why not this time?
After all, my 1984 Lauda MP4?2 should need a shelf partner.
OK, then let's start...
OK, I know it's not much promising, but the car is there... yes it'll need some modeling knife and some glue in the middle, but the basics are there...
You start discussing technicals details with someone daring to make a scratch RE50... and end up making one.
You know: "Who's the more foolish, the fool, or the fool who follows him?" as Obi Wan would say.
I wanna say that yes, friendship leads to do unforeseen things. In some 34 years of scratch building F1 cars (actually since 34 years ago, I did take some dry spells I guess!! ) I had never done this: start from scratch a 1/12 F1 car. I tried to modify one, but did not finish.
I owed Cedric this one, since I said I'd follow him with the RE60 and fnally didn't. So I said, why not this time?
After all, my 1984 Lauda MP4?2 should need a shelf partner.
OK, then let's start...
OK, I know it's not much promising, but the car is there... yes it'll need some modeling knife and some glue in the middle, but the basics are there...
Last edited by JamesB on Thu Jan 09, 2020 10:34 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: RE50 T-car
hehehe, I was kidding you guys... let's keep going!!
Surely knive and glue will do little if there's not a bit of calculations before, so let's see.
My method is usually the same: find good pics, get right the basic shapes, that are quite parametrycal on these cars, and start getting measures right. In this case, I managed to find some good pics both for profile and front view. Some thanks to Cedric, so we basically will share measures both will nail it or fail it!
I always prefer roughs or sketches than full complete drawings. A simple shape and measures. It helps me to concentrate on the measure. Want a further measure? go to the scaled pic. ou save one or two steps where you add error.
So the pics lead me to this...
ome philosophical discussion...
Hmmm... we start to see actual parts....
One of the golden rules: never start gluing parts till you have bulkheads. Got bulkheads? then let's start. Rock'n Roll!
Seems we get some basics. Fruit of more discussions, seems we have to bite that corner of the cockpit sides. In fact that's the lower half of the wall, even bulkheads are just lower 50%. But we need to reduce that corner since, form steering wheel bulkhead onwards, the bod is curved from a lower level.
And here go the walls of the narrower part of chassis. The foremost point is where the nose cone will start.
Sketch of sterring wheel (or front roll hoop) bulkhead.
And the part, with holes to make the space for driver's legs already done
Once installed... this 2mm plastic is a wonder to wotk with. Glass base also helps.
With such a test driver, we can't go wrong!! This one dedicated to my japanese fellow
And now with the full sized bulkheads. The previous ones were already positioned 2mm to the inside so these are spot on.
So that's all for now. Next step is adding the "skin" of upper part. I still doubt between several layers of 0,3mm or 0,5mm styrene, or small stripes of 2mm thick one, as our fellow member did with that astonishing BT46B...
OK, mates, thanks for watching!
Surely knive and glue will do little if there's not a bit of calculations before, so let's see.
My method is usually the same: find good pics, get right the basic shapes, that are quite parametrycal on these cars, and start getting measures right. In this case, I managed to find some good pics both for profile and front view. Some thanks to Cedric, so we basically will share measures both will nail it or fail it!
I always prefer roughs or sketches than full complete drawings. A simple shape and measures. It helps me to concentrate on the measure. Want a further measure? go to the scaled pic. ou save one or two steps where you add error.
So the pics lead me to this...
ome philosophical discussion...
Hmmm... we start to see actual parts....
One of the golden rules: never start gluing parts till you have bulkheads. Got bulkheads? then let's start. Rock'n Roll!
Seems we get some basics. Fruit of more discussions, seems we have to bite that corner of the cockpit sides. In fact that's the lower half of the wall, even bulkheads are just lower 50%. But we need to reduce that corner since, form steering wheel bulkhead onwards, the bod is curved from a lower level.
And here go the walls of the narrower part of chassis. The foremost point is where the nose cone will start.
Sketch of sterring wheel (or front roll hoop) bulkhead.
And the part, with holes to make the space for driver's legs already done
Once installed... this 2mm plastic is a wonder to wotk with. Glass base also helps.
With such a test driver, we can't go wrong!! This one dedicated to my japanese fellow
And now with the full sized bulkheads. The previous ones were already positioned 2mm to the inside so these are spot on.
So that's all for now. Next step is adding the "skin" of upper part. I still doubt between several layers of 0,3mm or 0,5mm styrene, or small stripes of 2mm thick one, as our fellow member did with that astonishing BT46B...
OK, mates, thanks for watching!
Last edited by JamesB on Thu Jan 09, 2020 10:35 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: 1/12th scale RE50 T-car
Nice start, some day I wish I can do a project like that. But not that big
Good lucky with your project.
Starr
Good lucky with your project.
Starr
Classic Plastic Model Club - Lowell, MA
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Re: 1/12th scale RE50 T-car
Wow, hats off to you, James, for starting on another scratch-build journey!
Can I ask a stupid question? How do you cut thick plastic card like that, without breaking your knife-tips 100 times? Is there a fast, clean way to cut through thick plastic..?
Cheers, Chris
Can I ask a stupid question? How do you cut thick plastic card like that, without breaking your knife-tips 100 times? Is there a fast, clean way to cut through thick plastic..?
Cheers, Chris
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Re: 1/12th scale RE50 T-car
crooa
go my friend GOO!
go my friend GOO!
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Re: 1/12th scale RE50 T-car
I like this. Love following scrathbuilding. Go James & Cedric!
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Re: 1/12th scale RE50 T-car
Oh yes,i love scratch building and doing crazy stuff like that.
Keep em coming!
Keep em coming!
Resin Kits and Parts for Sale
Porsche 962 in 1/8 Scale IMSA & Shorttail New!
http://mezzo-mix-models.jimdo.com
Porsche 962 in 1/8 Scale IMSA & Shorttail New!
http://mezzo-mix-models.jimdo.com
Re: 1/12th scale RE50 T-car
Thanks for the kind words, Christian, Davey and Cedric.
Starr, just dare! in fact big scale helps a lot in dimensional accuracy: you don't need to bother much below half a mm. Besides, parts are so much easier to handle and put in the right position.
Forget scisors!! The sytem has its shortcomings, yes: you are not THAT sure if all the edge will be at 90º. But generally it does and the trick is to be sure you relay on the face of the part that is dimensionally spot on, the one you made the drawing and the cut on. If the other face is larger, it's easy to trim the "bad" side of the edge.
Anyway, and that involves the whole process, I'll take a line from Rick Mears "It's not what you see or what you know, it's what you race" (or kinda), in this case "It's not what you calculate, you draw, you research... but finally the part you cut and you glue". Though obviously you gotta get it right on the firdt steps.
Patience and care and consistent checking is needed on these first stages, Mistakes done now, hardly fixable later.
OK, more this afternoon, thanks for watching, supporting and commenting.
Starr, just dare! in fact big scale helps a lot in dimensional accuracy: you don't need to bother much below half a mm. Besides, parts are so much easier to handle and put in the right position.
Chris, the trick is quite simple: treat it like glass. A not-too-deep cut, and then break it.Can I ask a stupid question? How do you cut thick plastic card like that, without breaking your knife-tips 100 times? Is there a fast, clean way to cut through thick plastic..?
Cheers, Chris
Forget scisors!! The sytem has its shortcomings, yes: you are not THAT sure if all the edge will be at 90º. But generally it does and the trick is to be sure you relay on the face of the part that is dimensionally spot on, the one you made the drawing and the cut on. If the other face is larger, it's easy to trim the "bad" side of the edge.
Anyway, and that involves the whole process, I'll take a line from Rick Mears "It's not what you see or what you know, it's what you race" (or kinda), in this case "It's not what you calculate, you draw, you research... but finally the part you cut and you glue". Though obviously you gotta get it right on the firdt steps.
Patience and care and consistent checking is needed on these first stages, Mistakes done now, hardly fixable later.
OK, more this afternoon, thanks for watching, supporting and commenting.
Last edited by JamesB on Thu Jan 09, 2020 10:38 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: 1/12th scale RE50 T-car
Great start James!!!
Another scratchbuild....I'm in heaven!
Cheers, H
Another scratchbuild....I'm in heaven!
Cheers, H
Re: 1/12th scale RE50 T-car
Hé hé..I will follow for sure my friend
Alex.
Alex.