JV Ferrari 126C2 - San Marino MFH 1:12

[gtziaf]

Awesome job. Hope someday I can buy this MFH 126C2 and your job will be my first reference.

[CBartholomew4677]

The Ferrari is stunning, you continue to knock it out of the park!!! Fantastic, looking to seeing more.

Cheers,
Chris

[Jerryv]

Progresing at a very slow pace but bodywork is finally painted and decaled, just waiting for 2K clearcoat. This might take some time as I am building a paint booth ( I've always paited ouside the house, having to deal with wind and dust so it is time to upgrade to a paintbooth). Paint is Tamiya TS-8 italian red and will use Gravity clear.

The kit decals are thick and in the past I only used Tamiya mark fit for decaling with good results. This time I had to get some microsol and it worked quite well although I had to give many passes to smooth large areas of clear decals.

I didn't apply clear before decaling but instead spent some time fine sanding the basecoat to bring imperfections down, looks like it worked out well but we'll see after clearcoating.

Cheers.

[Shunter]

Stunning work, it all looks flawless.

[gp-models]

Great paint job, looks awesome!

[turboF1]

Hi Jerry, looks like it's clear coated already! Excellent work. What grits did you use on the base coat?
Why one coat of 2K? Was it to not have too thick of gloss coat look?

[Jerryv]

Thank you Gents.

Hi Jerry, looks like it's clear coated already! Excellent work. What grits did you use on the base coat?
Why one coat of 2K? Was it to not have too thick of gloss coat look?

Hi Turbo, thanks. I used micromesh 4,000 to 12,000 for the basecoat. As for the clear, some recommend applying decals on a glossy surface for better decal adhesion and avoid visible decal edges, that's the reason sometimes for applying clear before decals, but I found that what really matters is to have a flatten surface more than a glossy one.

The problem with visible decal edges or blurry clear decals is not the shine of the surface beneath the decal but all the air trapped between the decal and the surface. In the first two pics the paint is shine but not flatten, this will trap micro bubbles. You might notice the paint is not shiny in the last two pics but is flatten after sanding, this helps with decaling.

The major problem with decaling this model are the decals with the # 27/28 on the sides as they come as a single decal, so there is a large clear area between the numbers and the resin is badly casted on these areas. You can either flatten every layer (resin, primer and paint) or better yet, cut separating the numbers to avoid the clear decal area.

Cheers.

[CBartholomew4677]

Still awesome !! The paint on the bodywork is stunning, love it!

Cheers,
Chris

[Jerryv]

Still awesome !! The paint on the bodywork is stunning, love it!

Cheers,
Chris

Thanks Chris.

Cheers.

[Paul_OFarrell]

Hi Jerry

Fabulous work mate, I just re-read your entire WIP again and you have inspired me to pull my finger out and get on with my current project.

Re: the large numeral decals, it is a good idea to separate the two digits and apply them separately. This will prevent any chance of silvering from appearing between the digits.

I am curious to learn why you needed to re-make the skirts. Were the original parts too badly warped? It looks like you've used wood - wouldn't these also be prone to warpage over time? Please don't take my thoughts as criticism as they are great looking boards, but I wonder if sheet aluminium or sheet styrene would have been a more stable material for this purpose. I'd be happy to read your thoughts.

My last question concerns the seam where the two halves of the tub are joined together. Recent pictures of this area show a very neat looking strip of material which hides the seam really well. Is this a photoetch item which is included in the kit? This was one area which I was wondering about while reading your WIP, and thankfully it is nicely done and as neat and tidy as the rest of your build.

Cheers, Paul
Sydney, Oz