Tamiya 1:12 McLaren MP4/6 Rebuild/Upgrade
Re: Tamiya 1:12 McLaren MP4/6 Rebuild/Upgrade
Thanks Steve,
I did use Microsol, and assumed that after 24 hours the bubbles would disappear. It obviously didn't, so short of scrapping the decals (again) there wasn't much to be done. As you say, I'll know next time. I hope that this McLaren scheme is the trickiest of the three to get right. The white shows every tiny speck of dust, and the flourescent finish isn't that easy to perfect.
I did use Microsol, and assumed that after 24 hours the bubbles would disappear. It obviously didn't, so short of scrapping the decals (again) there wasn't much to be done. As you say, I'll know next time. I hope that this McLaren scheme is the trickiest of the three to get right. The white shows every tiny speck of dust, and the flourescent finish isn't that easy to perfect.
Re: Tamiya 1:12 McLaren MP4/6 Rebuild/Upgrade
Soldered up the stalk type mirror supports:
All needs painting now, but I'll wait until the wing elements are ready and do the remaining things at once:
Comparison with Tamiya TS-36 Flourescent Red before I strip that last bit for re-painting:
All needs painting now, but I'll wait until the wing elements are ready and do the remaining things at once:
Comparison with Tamiya TS-36 Flourescent Red before I strip that last bit for re-painting:
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Re: Tamiya 1:12 McLaren MP4/6 Rebuild/Upgrade
Real difference to TS-36, I've always thought it was way off in shade...
Steve Noble
Re: Tamiya 1:12 McLaren MP4/6 Rebuild/Upgrade
I'd be happy if the Ferrari was TS-36...
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Re: Tamiya 1:12 McLaren MP4/6 Rebuild/Upgrade
the 36 is really hard to put! and master posed!
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Re: Tamiya 1:12 McLaren MP4/6 Rebuild/Upgrade
Interesting comparison of the paint. Good to see.
Those mirrors look perfect, keep at it...
Those mirrors look perfect, keep at it...
Re: Tamiya 1:12 McLaren MP4/6 Rebuild/Upgrade
Thanks guys!
So I've turned my attention to the wings. Obviously I had to snap them apart at the joints in order to repaint them, which has left them with rather imprecise location features for re-assembly. TBH the original kit spigots and holes were pretty crude, particularly on the front wings.
I started by filling the existing location holes with plastic rod and liquid cement, and flatting the surfaces once set:
I then re-drilled much smaller holes precisely in the centres of these bits of plastic.
Then sliced off the large plastic spigots on the wings, drilled in the centre of the witness marks and inserted some small diameter brass rod. These spigots protrude precisely half the thickness of the endplate:
Also used a small chisel to clean up the upper wing element recess:
After all this, the rear wing assembly self-jigs very accurately, and will be fine when re-assembled using Araldite:
Final touch was to counterbore the outboard ends of the new holes to precisely half the depth of the endplates, in order that 1.0mm p/e rivets can be fitted flush over the ends of the brass rod to make the entire repair invisible, and true to the prototype. All the moulded-in recesses will have flush rivets fitted eventually:
Similar story with the front wing:
Only this time I allowed the plastic rod to protrude into the wing location sockets:
By initially drilling pilot holes with a small diameter drill through the endplate and into the wing itself, I was subsequently able to open up these witness marks to suit the protruding rod ends, thereby making a perfect location fit. I also drilled holes for some leading edge incidence pins, using brass rod, as per the rear wing:
Again, the front wing is once again self-jigging and solid, and will be very robust once assembled with Araldite. As with the rear, all pins will be covered with 1.0mm p/e rivets.
I'm still removing the moulded-in Gurney flap from the rear wing, and will remove the vertical end-plate strakes (all to be replaced with p/e strip. I'll also make a set of Gurney flaps for the front wing and rear wing lower element.
Still a way to go, but at least some more progress.
So I've turned my attention to the wings. Obviously I had to snap them apart at the joints in order to repaint them, which has left them with rather imprecise location features for re-assembly. TBH the original kit spigots and holes were pretty crude, particularly on the front wings.
I started by filling the existing location holes with plastic rod and liquid cement, and flatting the surfaces once set:
I then re-drilled much smaller holes precisely in the centres of these bits of plastic.
Then sliced off the large plastic spigots on the wings, drilled in the centre of the witness marks and inserted some small diameter brass rod. These spigots protrude precisely half the thickness of the endplate:
Also used a small chisel to clean up the upper wing element recess:
After all this, the rear wing assembly self-jigs very accurately, and will be fine when re-assembled using Araldite:
Final touch was to counterbore the outboard ends of the new holes to precisely half the depth of the endplates, in order that 1.0mm p/e rivets can be fitted flush over the ends of the brass rod to make the entire repair invisible, and true to the prototype. All the moulded-in recesses will have flush rivets fitted eventually:
Similar story with the front wing:
Only this time I allowed the plastic rod to protrude into the wing location sockets:
By initially drilling pilot holes with a small diameter drill through the endplate and into the wing itself, I was subsequently able to open up these witness marks to suit the protruding rod ends, thereby making a perfect location fit. I also drilled holes for some leading edge incidence pins, using brass rod, as per the rear wing:
Again, the front wing is once again self-jigging and solid, and will be very robust once assembled with Araldite. As with the rear, all pins will be covered with 1.0mm p/e rivets.
I'm still removing the moulded-in Gurney flap from the rear wing, and will remove the vertical end-plate strakes (all to be replaced with p/e strip. I'll also make a set of Gurney flaps for the front wing and rear wing lower element.
Still a way to go, but at least some more progress.
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Re: Tamiya 1:12 McLaren MP4/6 Rebuild/Upgrade
Nice work on both of the wings, those metal pins are a great idea, I'll have to try that.
Steve Noble
Re: Tamiya 1:12 McLaren MP4/6 Rebuild/Upgrade
Thanks!
Does anyone have a reference for the type of carbon used on the wings? My references (books and online) don't show them well enough. I think a lot is u/d, but other areas might be twill and plain weave. Current thinking is to go with what I think might look good.
Does anyone have a reference for the type of carbon used on the wings? My references (books and online) don't show them well enough. I think a lot is u/d, but other areas might be twill and plain weave. Current thinking is to go with what I think might look good.
Re: Tamiya 1:12 McLaren MP4/6 Rebuild/Upgrade
Tonight I filled the large gaps in the underside of the front wing with Sodium bicarbonate and Cyano:
Never ceases to amaze how rock hard this stuff is, but I don't want to end up with my usual filler dissolving under the onslaught of automotive paints, as happened with teh body. Now flatted ready for primer:
Never ceases to amaze how rock hard this stuff is, but I don't want to end up with my usual filler dissolving under the onslaught of automotive paints, as happened with teh body. Now flatted ready for primer:
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