Jordan 191

[PanAmNut]

Nice stuff " J"!

Keep us in the loop?

Cheers,

-elh-

[jaykay]

Here we go with build progress of an area i haven’t shown yet. Obviously that’s the engine :-)
I first cut off the rear wing supports which will be replaced. This also gave me room to build a new gearbox/final gear cover. Because of the integrated wing supports that area is nowhere near the original on the kit parts because the injection tooling wouldn’t work. The same goes for the top area of the gear box.
After gluing the engine halves together and cleaning up the visible seams I rebuilt the final gear cover with styrene. There’s a nice picture of the gear box out off the car in the F1Modeling Schumacher Special that helped a lot.
At the sides I filled up the holes for the suspension arms and some ugly locator pins for bodywork parts that I won’t use. The suspension will be overhauled just like the front and I want to detail the connectors/brackets better.





So on to the rear wing supports. The Tamiya ones are not that wrong, but they could be better detailed. The machined frame pattern on the kit parts is only on the outside but on the real ones it’s on both sides. So I etched a central plate and two frames for each side from 0,2mm nickel silver. The artwork for these parts was the most complicated to do of all the parts I made for the Jordan. Here you see the two sprues ( they’re identical at least :-)





After cleaning the parts up I assembled them with super glue.





And next you see them together with more wing parts.





The wing elements from the kit are all sanded clean and I filled up the holes for locator pins on the undersides because I don’t like those. In addition you see some more etched bits I will use to detail the rear wing better.
The Tamyia wing endplates aren’t bad ( apart from that locator pin issue :-) but I decided to try something more detailed with them as well. Why easy if you can do it the complicated way!? :-)
I etched two layers of 0,1mm nickel silver and then made the thick areas at the front from 0,4mm styrene sheet.





The tricky part will be to put them together and then paint and polish them without losing all the tiny crisp details I achieved so far!
In the end I want to put the wing together with metal bolts just like the real one. I hope all this is gonna work out :-)

So much for now! This was the last update for a while. This time next week I’ll be at Goodwood, hunting reference pictures for even more projects I’ll never get around to build and then I’m on holidays, so don’t expect anything new before mid August :-)

Cheers!

[vekkuli]

Wow !

[43rdMichael]

Awesome work!!!

[wilchan]

Speechless!!!!! This is as crazy as your MP4/4

Do you plan to mass produce the PE part you made and sell it to us?

-- william

[jaykay]

Thanks guys:-)

@William and Pascal: I don't have any plans to produce more of the PE and sell it. It's the same story as it was with the MP4/4 where i got the same question. The parts i make are meant to be used with very modified or scratchbuilt plastic parts. For others you would need additional turned or milled parts.
Then these parts are in a "prototype" stadium. Some are fine "out of the box", others need modifications and in some cases the etching process doesn't work as planned. This sometimes means a good deal of clean-up that you wouldn't accept on stuff you buy ( i wouldn't :-) I would have to get the parts production ready and made by a supplier. On top of that I would have to make some sort of instructions for them and that would take ages.
All together it wouldn't be much fun for me to spend all that extra time and i don't think i'd earn any money from it. So ultimately i rather work on a new model:-)

[Paul_OFarrell]

Hi Jaykay,

Love your work mate. I completed my 191 a while ago and your work so far is outstanding. Can't wait to see this jewel progress. Which polyester putty have used?

I need to ask a newbie-type question with regards to how you handle your scratchbuilt parts while painting. Given that most of your p/e and styrene parts have holes in them, I assume you would loop a piece of fuse-wire through the part to act as a handle? I've tried this myself but found that the part tends to "flap in the breeze" while airbrushing it, due to the wire being very thin and bending when the part being painted gets hit with the airflow from the airbrush.

Do you have an alternate workaround that you'd like to share?

Cheers
Paul
Sydney Oz

[generationx]

Superb stuff!

And enjoy Goodwood - I'm going tomorrow and can't wait...

[jaykay]

Hi Paul

The polyester putty I’m using is some ordinary fine grain automotive stuff you can find in the car section of supermarkets or DIY-stores ( white putty with red hardener ).

For painting I mostly fix my parts to sticks ( wood, metal or kit sprue ) with hot glue because it’s quick and easy to remove. On white metal parts this doesn’t work very often, so on these or very small parts that have only small spots where you can glue them I use thin metal or plastic rods and super glue.
Just sliding wire through holes in the parts usually isn’t an option because as you noted the parts may move around from the air pressure and that’s no good :-)
I’ll try to remember and post a picture when I get to painting.


Hi everyone

After what turned out to be an extended summer break i’m back working on the Jordan and finally i have some stuff together that makes sense to show.

The first job was to thin out the lower bodywork parts left and right of the engine from the backside, add a bit of wall on the inside of the sidepod intakes and then add 0,1mm metal strips at the upper edges. I had to „smooth“ them in with putty and they will ( hopefully) hold the cowling instead of those ugly locator pins :-)





Now the next step is of course the cowling. I started by also thinning it out from the inside but that’s where i still am. I need to properly match it up with the aforementioned lower bodywork parts and the cockpit tub and that’s rather tricky. Without the Tamiya pins it doesn’t just sit flush on the other parts ( especially around the cockpit ). There’s some tweaking and bending necessary and that’s scary stuff. I’m in fact working on my second cowling because the bending ( which involves a hot air gun…) went wrong when i was almost finished the first time…..don’t ask…styrene melts suddenly and sometimes where you don’t need it! :-)

So to cheer myself up I decided to do some fun parts and got going on the lathe and mill to do bits for the suspension. In a previous update i have already shown the new front push-rods i made. Well i found out soon after, that the ( green ) rod ends were in fact wrong. There should be adjustable parts. So i remade them from aluminium and brass ( for the hex nuts ) and also added slightly smaller samples at the tops.





They are then fixed to a bracket which connects them to the front mono-shock in the nose. I don’t have a picture of the original part so i had to make something up that looks kinda credible :-)

Then came the damper and the same problem of insufficient reference material. There are good pictures of the rear dampers in the Perfect Manual but the front damper is not exactly the same so i designed it along the lines of the rear ones and of what i could see of it. As you can see in the next picture it consists of quite a few parts made from aluminium, plexiglass, renshape and 0,6mm wire. The whole assembly has a diameter of 4mm. There are in fact some more parts still to come… :-)





The next parts to be made were for the steering mechanism which will be movable after assembly ( at least that’s the plan :-). I used various diameter brass tubes and added turned aluminium parts. Those tiny cone shaped parts are quite fragile and they really made me wonder, how sturdy the originals must have been. They don’t look like something i would trust while going through Eau Rouge :-)





Photoetched rod ends will connect the steering arms to the uprights via those black pieces. These brackets are made from black plexiglass because without the need to paint them they are less likely to loose their details which took serious time to mill and then file/sand by hand.





The brighter looking areas with very thin walls only show up under strong light like in the picture :-)

The upper kit suspension arms had to be modified like the lower ones to be connected to the new brackets on the uprights and also on the chassis where I made two more tiny parts from plexiglass that should look better than the moulded in blobs on the kit arms once painted :-)





So finally here are some shots with all those parts dry assembled on the chassis. The jig proved to be of invaluable help while getting all the pieces aligned and sized right.













Making all those bits may seem somewhat silly but that’s what I really enjoy ( much more than painting and polishing ) and I tend to get carried away with it. I already did some more parts that I will show in updates to come :-)

It leaves me however with the cowling to fix and that has to be done before I can start priming and painting…sigh :-)

[wilchan]

One word... speechless!!! but keep them coming...

-- william