Jordan 191
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Re: Jordan 191
Marvellous build, I'd say
My completed Models:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/150229040 ... 3349714787
https://www.flickr.com/photos/150229040 ... 3349714787
Re: Jordan 191
Well, that's no stupid question Renshape is a polyurethane material that is used in professional model building. In Europe it's sold under names like Ureol and Necupur ( depending on the manufacturer ). It comes in various densities. The type i'm using is sort of like a hard wood, but it doesn't have any grains or structures like wood. Unlike styrene it's good for machining and it can be glued with epoxy or CA-glue. Hope that helps. For more you can also google itmarlborored wrote:OMG you're putting on a clinic Stupid question, but what's a renshape?
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Re: Jordan 191
always a pleasure to see your work Jaykay. Absolutely awesome!
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Re: Jordan 191
I think the bar is going to have a new level....inspirational stuff.
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Re: Jordan 191
couldn't agree more and thanks for the answer about thinning parts, Joachim!43rdMichael wrote:always a pleasure to see your work Jaykay. Absolutely awesome!
Last edited by De21 on Thu Jun 04, 2009 5:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Jordan 191
Dennis...one more thing i forgot to mention about thinning parts. One very helpful tool i got some time ago on ebay is this:
It's called "Schnelltaster" or "Außentaster". It's like a mechanical caliper but with one big advantage: it measures the thickness in only one point and that point can be on a curved surface or be a thin area surrounded by thick ones. It's a really helpful addition to a normal caliper. Mine cost around 15€ when i bought it and it does a good job even though it looks like it was made around WWII There are digital ones too but they are seriously expensive.
It's called "Schnelltaster" or "Außentaster". It's like a mechanical caliper but with one big advantage: it measures the thickness in only one point and that point can be on a curved surface or be a thin area surrounded by thick ones. It's a really helpful addition to a normal caliper. Mine cost around 15€ when i bought it and it does a good job even though it looks like it was made around WWII There are digital ones too but they are seriously expensive.
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Re: Jordan 191
Thanks! You've turned me on to something new!jaykay wrote:Well, that's no stupid question Renshape is a polyurethane material that is used in professional model building. In Europe it's sold under names like Ureol and Necupur ( depending on the manufacturer ). It comes in various densities. The type i'm using is sort of like a hard wood, but it doesn't have any grains or structures like wood. Unlike styrene it's good for machining and it can be glued with epoxy or CA-glue. Hope that helps. For more you can also google itmarlborored wrote:OMG you're putting on a clinic Stupid question, but what's a renshape?
Re: Jordan 191
Nice!
Keep in mind that if you're already utilizing a micrometer you can get ball/round caps that fit right on it to accomplish the same thing ........... and they're cheap and readily available. Unfortunately I've not seen them for dial calipers although they might be out there somewhere.
Cheers,
-elh-
Keep in mind that if you're already utilizing a micrometer you can get ball/round caps that fit right on it to accomplish the same thing ........... and they're cheap and readily available. Unfortunately I've not seen them for dial calipers although they might be out there somewhere.
Cheers,
-elh-
Re: Jordan 191
Hi, here’s some more progress :-)
This may not look as impressive as the turned and milled parts i showed you last time but in fact it was more time consuming and trickier because most of it had to be done by hand with test fitting and checking over and over again.
Anyway….here we go. Before I can go about and build the suspension I had to put the front of the monocoque together.
The part I made to house the front damper needed a further addition with these channels.
The pushrods will run through them.
The next part is the front bulkhead of the monocoque. I want to make the nosecone removable so I try to build it like the real one. I photo etched a frame with the holes for the mounting pins of the nose and a corresponding frame piece that goes on the nosecone to get everything aligned properly.
I doubled up the etched frame with styrene because I can’t etch it in the correct thickness.
Next you can see the two pieces mounted on the monocoque. Of course I shortened the monocoque by the thickness of the new bulkhead before adding it to keep the original length :-)
At the same time I made another piece that won’t be visible at a first glance but I find it important. That’s the inside of the monocoque with the dashboard bulkhead.
The black dashboard piece is from the kit. I sanded off some details and then added a thin styrene strip on the outside because there was a gap with the monocoque when it was in place. Tamiya just left a big hole where the driver’s legs would go that would leave the suspension arms visible, so I added a tub that will cover them and also take up the pedals and steering column. The part can easily be slid in from the cockpit during final assembly.
Here you can see it dry fit with the rest of the cockpit.
So on to the nosecone with front wing. Here you have the original kit pieces:
I cut the flaps off the wing ( they will be replaced ), glued it to the nosecone and after filling up some holes and gaps sanded all the surfaces.
Then I added the photo etched frame bit and some styrene that corresponds to the monocoque front bulkhead I made.
And finally here is the nosecone held to the monocoque with two 0,5mm pins and I keep my fingers crossed that this will still fit after paint and decals :-)
So much for now and thanks for checking!
This may not look as impressive as the turned and milled parts i showed you last time but in fact it was more time consuming and trickier because most of it had to be done by hand with test fitting and checking over and over again.
Anyway….here we go. Before I can go about and build the suspension I had to put the front of the monocoque together.
The part I made to house the front damper needed a further addition with these channels.
The pushrods will run through them.
The next part is the front bulkhead of the monocoque. I want to make the nosecone removable so I try to build it like the real one. I photo etched a frame with the holes for the mounting pins of the nose and a corresponding frame piece that goes on the nosecone to get everything aligned properly.
I doubled up the etched frame with styrene because I can’t etch it in the correct thickness.
Next you can see the two pieces mounted on the monocoque. Of course I shortened the monocoque by the thickness of the new bulkhead before adding it to keep the original length :-)
At the same time I made another piece that won’t be visible at a first glance but I find it important. That’s the inside of the monocoque with the dashboard bulkhead.
The black dashboard piece is from the kit. I sanded off some details and then added a thin styrene strip on the outside because there was a gap with the monocoque when it was in place. Tamiya just left a big hole where the driver’s legs would go that would leave the suspension arms visible, so I added a tub that will cover them and also take up the pedals and steering column. The part can easily be slid in from the cockpit during final assembly.
Here you can see it dry fit with the rest of the cockpit.
So on to the nosecone with front wing. Here you have the original kit pieces:
I cut the flaps off the wing ( they will be replaced ), glued it to the nosecone and after filling up some holes and gaps sanded all the surfaces.
Then I added the photo etched frame bit and some styrene that corresponds to the monocoque front bulkhead I made.
And finally here is the nosecone held to the monocoque with two 0,5mm pins and I keep my fingers crossed that this will still fit after paint and decals :-)
So much for now and thanks for checking!
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Re: Jordan 191
That looks absolutely fantastic! Keep up the good work, it's looking great