Solder replacement

Beware of all the tiny parts...

For all posts related to 43rd scale models.
Post Reply
User avatar

Topic author
davidf
Spectator
Spectator
Posts: 9
Joined: Mon Feb 07, 2011 3:21 am
Status: Offline

Solder replacement

Post by davidf »

Good Morning.

Haven taken up this scale again recently I'm having some issues gluing PE to white metal parts. I have tried zap a gap and jb weld but not happy with the results. I know soldering is the best option but I don't really want to shell out for a variable temp soldering iron for the limited time i would be using it.

Are there any alternatives worth trying?

Thanks in advance,

David.
User avatar

d111298pw
Constructors Champion
Constructors Champion
Posts: 1347
Joined: Thu Dec 11, 2008 9:15 am
Your Name: Mark Nicodemus
Favorite F1 Team or Driver: Ferrari
Location: Oklahoma
Status: Offline
United States of America

Re: Solder replacement

Post by d111298pw »

I've always used 5 minute epoxy for attaching anything to white metal. Never had a problem.
Mark

43k
F2
F2
Posts: 71
Joined: Sun Jan 03, 2016 6:10 am
Location: London, England.
Status: Offline

Re: Solder replacement

Post by 43k »

I use solder a lot in 1/43 scale and once you master the technique there is no going back! it is by far the better way for joining any metal parts together. I’m still using my 12v (yes, 12v!) Antex soldering iron I got for £13 on everything. Even between white metal to white metal on car bodies. The real limitations are that you get the correct solder/ flux/ technique and I believe the choice of soldering iron is irrelevant.

43k
F2
F2
Posts: 71
Joined: Sun Jan 03, 2016 6:10 am
Location: London, England.
Status: Offline

Re: Solder replacement

Post by 43k »

Sorry that should’ve been 12watts (12w)!
User avatar

Tyrone
Backmarker
Backmarker
Posts: 305
Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2016 5:04 am
Your Name: Tyrone
Favorite F1 Team or Driver: James Hunt
Location: United Kingdom
Contact:
Status: Offline
Great Britain

Re: Solder replacement

Post by Tyrone »

43k wrote:I use solder a lot in 1/43 scale and once you master the technique there is no going back! it is by far the better way for joining any metal parts together. I’m still using my 12v (yes, 12v!) Antex soldering iron I got for £13 on everything. Even between white metal to white metal on car bodies. The real limitations are that you get the correct solder/ flux/ technique and I believe the choice of soldering iron is irrelevant.
What solder and flux do you recommend? I've used the low melt solder that comes in blocks, but the white metal Never seems to stick to it, I think my flux is the issue?

Malcolm
F2 Champion
F2 Champion
Posts: 178
Joined: Mon Mar 28, 2011 4:58 am
Your Name: Malcolm
Favorite F1 Team or Driver: McLaren
Location: UK
Status: Offline
Great Britain

Re: Solder replacement

Post by Malcolm »

I tried a number of different makes of flux (in the mistaken belief that having the low melting point solder was the most important issue).

Finally, after a load of failures, I came across Gaugemaster Flux 2 White metal. I have to say that this makes all the difference. I'm sure there are other makes. I am in the UK, and I don't know if this is available elsewhere, but it certainly was the answer for me.

I hope that helps.

Best wishes
Malcolm

Formulamike
World Champion
World Champion
Posts: 671
Joined: Fri Jan 09, 2009 7:00 am
Favorite F1 Team or Driver: Lotus
Status: Offline
Germany

Re: Solder replacement

Post by Formulamike »

Hi David,

please look in this 43rd forum, at moment Page 11, the Topic Solder of a rearwing,
with simple parts, with a digital solder station.
Maybe can help this old Topic.

Mike

cbk57
F1 Test Driver
F1 Test Driver
Posts: 278
Joined: Fri Dec 04, 2015 9:26 am
Your Name: Scott Huber
Favorite F1 Team or Driver: Mercedes, Lewis Hamilton
Location: Pa, USA
Status: Offline
United States of America

Re: Solder replacement

Post by cbk57 »

What is an alternative to guagemaster in the U.S. or who sells gauge master product in the U.S.?

43k
F2
F2
Posts: 71
Joined: Sun Jan 03, 2016 6:10 am
Location: London, England.
Status: Offline

Re: Solder replacement

Post by 43k »

I use Carr’s 145 Detailing Solder which I got from C+L Finescale in the UK. This solder contains lead which I find flows much better than any non-lead version. For the flux, I use a homemade 50% phosphate acid which works very well and without leaving any residual. I know that probably doesn’t answer your question but hopefully you can find your answer on C+L Finescale website.
Post Reply