Zakspeed Turbo Capri 1/12 Scratch

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vekkuli
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Re: Zakspeed Turbo Capri 1/12 Scratch

Post by vekkuli »

Stunning Work, I appreciate that :D .
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capri-schorsch
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Re: Zakspeed Turbo Capri 1/12 Scratch

Post by capri-schorsch »

Hello.
i just want to show the milled mesh for the hood.

Image

We used Ureol with a thickness of 2mm.
I maked it 5 times,because ist good to have some in reserve. :mrgreen:

Christian
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Re: Zakspeed Turbo Capri 1/12 Scratch

Post by monkfish »

This is totally amazing!! :lol: I can't help but laugh in amazement! Brilliant! :D :D
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capri-schorsch
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Re: Zakspeed Turbo Capri 1/12 Scratch

Post by capri-schorsch »

Hi,

today i started with the bodywork mould.
I used surface resin first on the roof with columns.

Image

After that,i used the real laminate resin and put the laminate tissue on it.

Image

I hope it all works like i thought it would?
Tomorow i will be smarter.

Just a pic of the seats and the rear wings.

Image

Kind Regards
Christian
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Re: Zakspeed Turbo Capri 1/12 Scratch

Post by Darthwillie »

amazing, I get nervous just reading what you are doing :oops:

great job so far :D
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Re: Zakspeed Turbo Capri 1/12 Scratch

Post by jmpsebring »

Looking at all of this ...is inspirational and humbling all at the same time.

Your last step I find puzzeling though. As a fiberglass moldmaker, I wonder why you would start with cloth? A Iayer of thin matt will conform much better. Even matt should include cab-o-sil mixed to paste for nooks and crannies around the body just prior to the first matt layer. Once covered, the cloth layers will add strength.

I offer these slight variations just in case you are not aware of the products.
How did you actually cut the panel lines?
Again your skills involved in the master is a lesson for dreamers/builders like me wishing to see the entire process.
thanks!
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capri-schorsch
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Re: Zakspeed Turbo Capri 1/12 Scratch

Post by capri-schorsch »

I´m not shure if i clearly understand everything you wrote?
Can you tell it to me in an simple mode?
My english is not the best,even when i must talk about these specific things.

Sorry!
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Re: Zakspeed Turbo Capri 1/12 Scratch

Post by jmpsebring »

I'll try but time is against me. I didn't offer details in case you were insulted.

You used a woven cloth used to add strength. that's ok if the item is very smooth and flat.
You are trying to cover a very complex shape.
Cab-o-sil is a powder you mix with resin/hardner to form a toothpaste-like filler. Lets think about the rear of the body with that deep center sunken area. I would mix up the paste and with gloves, take a finger full of the paste and line the inside deep perimeter edges to visually ensure there will be no air bubbles in the deep recesses. the whole body should take no more than 5-8 minutes or so. Use very little hardner!
Now that the low, extreme areas are taken care of, you rip up small maybe 4"x4" matt patches. it's better to have frayed ripped edges to blend the pieces. In other words you don't want straight edges from cutting with sissors. Lay the matt material over the areas and dip your brush in resin and start working the matt . That's when the magic happens! Suddenly the matt melts into place. It's still hard to make the matt conform to sunken areas... but you have those areas pre-treated with the cab-o-sil paste. So your really putting the matt over a few mili-meters of paste around the deepest hard concaved recessed edges (undercuts). Even matt has a difficult time getting into those severe areas. As you work the entire body with the matt, you can easily see air bubbles.
Once the body is covered with the wetted, melted matt, you do what you were doing. use the woven cloth over the matt using more resin. Have sissors ready to snip the cloth around the rear fender flares for example.
A few layers of matt will work just fine. It gives you a "softer sponge-like surface allowing the glass cloth to conform to it.
hope this helps! I'm late for work!
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Re: Zakspeed Turbo Capri 1/12 Scratch

Post by jmpsebring »

you tube fiberglass layup!
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capri-schorsch
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Re: Zakspeed Turbo Capri 1/12 Scratch

Post by capri-schorsch »

Oh,now i think i did understand what you mean.

But i only want a mould and not an perfect surface.
The blue suff gets hard,very hard and the fiberglass is only there to make the blue stuff gets together.
I use an brush and put the surface resin on the body.
When everything is hard,i got an negative where i make the real body work as.For the real body i try to use some finer laminat matt.Maybee i take two layers in different directions.
But for now i think its not wrong what i have done.
For the real body work its more work than now.Because of the deeper holes in the back.You are right.There i must use more little pieces of laminat because of the bubbles.
But for the mould its not necessary,i think?

Kind Regards
Christian
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