The F1M Forums

i second that, Molotow is excellent. However, i found 2 issues with Molotow: 1. It loses its 'chrome' effect if touch too much. maybe the paint reacts with the oils on our fingers. I now use rubber gloves to handle parts that has been painted with Molotow, it seems to work. 2. I have not found a sui...

Tamiya pin vise for me.
I tried cheaper ones, the drill bits dont fit as well, and break more easily.

While we are discussing this topic, just thought id share as well. I recently bought Creality LD-002h resin printer. I did experience the issue of tolerance as you guys mentioned here. Even if i design parts with a gap of 0.5mm, i still find that parts are not fitting. I made a 1/20 f1 brake disc as...

I guess its prepping the plastic for painting (sanding, filling), as well as priming.
Also sanding the clear. But now i switched to 2k and try to avoid that.

Very nice clean build

Thanks all for your feedback.
I will try using tamiya polish and see the results.

Hi guys, I've just finished clear coating my latest model using Gravity spain 2k clear. Stuff works great. But as usual, tiny amounts of dust did somehow find its way onto the finish. Im just wondering if anyone has a quick and good method like polishing so that the dust cant been seen? Im really no...

Seems cheap here:

https://www.hobbyeasy.com/en/data/46265.html

I use tamiya surface primer over plastic. Rattle can works best, but it is pricey. These days i buy tamiya liquid primer in a bottle and mix with tamiya lacquer thinner. Ive sprayed all types of colour brands over them, like zero paints, my hobby, alclad, and of course tamiya paints, so far no issue...

https://scalemotorsport.com/collections/recommended-for-you/products/decal-vault https://www.universityproducts.com/conservation-materials/paper-film-and-board https://makingamark.blogspot.com/2012/11/what-is-archival-paper.html?m=1 key word is acid free, not wax. If you want to store, 5.5 bucks ea...